refrigerator (Home Systems)

Refrigerator

• What this is: how your fridge works, how to keep it running, and how to manage the one risk most owners never see coming — the ice-maker water supply line — for both strata and detached homes in BC.
• Not: built-in or panel-ready refrigerators (complex removal/install); wine coolers or chest freezers (separate notes); water-damage remediation (see insurance-warranties (Home Systems)).
• Figures: 2025–26 Metro Vancouver estimates — get your own quotes. Appliance and trade pricing varies widely by brand, access, and installer.

Bottom line

The rule (tripwire)

• If your fridge has a water/ice dispenser and you have a saddle valve on the supply line → replace the saddle valve with a proper T-fitting and ball valve. Saddle valves are a leading cause of slow hidden floods; they are barred by most modern plumbing codes and specifically flagged by insurers as a water-damage risk.¹² This is the highest-priority action in this note.
• If the plastic supply line behind the fridge is original and more than 5–7 years old → swap it for a braided stainless steel line now — before it cracks.³ This is a $20–$40 DIY part.
• If the fridge is 12–15+ years old and needs a repair costing more than 50–60% of a new unit’s price → replace it.⁴⁵ Sources differ on the threshold (one source cites 60%); use more than half the replacement cost as the practical trigger.

Recurring upkeep

• Clean the condenser coils every 6–12 months (monthly if you have pets). Dirty coils are the single biggest cause of compressor overwork and early failure — they can raise energy consumption by up to 30%.⁶
• Inspect the supply line and back-of-fridge connections every 6 months. Pull the fridge out and look at the line and both connections for drips, white mineral deposits, or kinks.
• Replace the water filter every 6 months if your fridge has one. A clogged filter cuts water flow by up to 75% and causes ice maker failures.⁷

One-time setup

• Locate and photograph the shutoff valve for the fridge water line. Know exactly where it is and confirm it works. In a strata, the valve is usually under the kitchen sink on the cold supply. → emergency-shutoffs (Home Systems)
• Confirm the valve type. If it is a saddle valve (small clamp device piercing the copper pipe), add it to your replacement list today.

Standing facts

• The fridge’s water supply line is owner-maintained in both strata and detached homes. In a strata, a supply-line leak that floods the unit below follows the same deductible-chargeback exposure as a burst washing-machine hose or supply line. → supply-lines (Home Systems)
• Refrigerators do not require a permit to replace — you pull it out, disconnect power and the water line, and slide the new unit in. No licensed trade required unless there is electrical or plumbing re-work.

How it works — the one thing that matters

A refrigerator is a heat pump: the compressor compresses refrigerant gas, the condenser coils (at the back or bottom) dump that heat into the room, the refrigerant expands and cools, and the evaporator coils inside the cabinet absorb heat from the food compartment. The cycle repeats continuously.

The single load-bearing dependency is airflow around the condenser coils. When those coils are coated with a layer of dust and pet hair, they cannot release heat efficiently. The compressor must run harder and longer to compensate — which shortens its life and your fridge’s life.

The ice-maker supply loop adds a second load-bearing dependency: the saddle valve.

Fridges with ice makers or water dispensers draw from a ¼” water supply line (typically plastic tubing or braided stainless steel) connected to a cold-water supply. The connection point is where most refrigerator-related water damage originates:

• Saddle valves — a clamp device that pierces a supply pipe using a needle — were the default DIY installation method for decades. They are prone to seepage as the needle creates a compromised point that allows mineral-deposit scaling and thermal expansion to open a leak over time. They do not close fully when operated, and they are barred under the plumbing codes of most modern jurisdictions.¹²
• Plastic tubing becomes brittle as it ages, especially where it bends behind the fridge when the unit is slid in and out. A hairline crack can weep undetected for months. Many insurers specifically flag plastic fridge lines as a water-damage risk.³
• Braided stainless steel lines resist kinking, cracking, and bursting. They are the current trade standard and the recommended upgrade when replacing a plastic line or when installing a new fridge.³

The defrost system is the third mechanism to understand. Modern frost-free fridges run a heating element on a timer to melt frost off the evaporator coils; the melt-water drains through a drain tube to a drip pan under the fridge. When that drain tube clogs with food debris or ice, the water backs up inside the fridge compartment — producing puddles inside the cabinet or on the kitchen floor directly in front of the fridge.⁸

So what: the maintenance actions (coil cleaning, supply-line inspection, drain clearing) each target one of these three mechanisms. None of them are complex. All of them are owner-doable.

What goes wrong, and the warning signs

Watch for	What it means
Water on the kitchen floor in front of the fridge	Clogged defrost drain (most common); or ice maker overflow; or a leaking supply line at the front
Water pooling inside the fridge, under the crisper drawers	Clogged defrost drain tube — water is backing up from the evaporator tray8
Ice or frost build-up on the freezer back wall	Defrost system failing — heater, timer, or drain not working
Wet or mineral-encrusted fitting behind the fridge	Supply line dripping at the connection — immediate action needed
White crust or green corrosion on the supply line fittings	Slow chronic leak at the connection — the line or fitting needs replacement
Plastic supply line behind the fridge, more than 5–7 years old	Pre-failure; swap proactively before it cracks3
Saddle valve on the supply pipe	Replace with a proper T-fitting and ball valve — it’s a ticking clock12
Fridge running constantly, or weak cooling	Dirty condenser coils (check first); or failing thermostat; or sealed-system issue
Food in the fridge warm but freezer still cold	Evaporator fan motor failed — warm air not circulating into the fridge compartment
Door doesn’t hold a dollar bill firmly	Door gasket has failed — warm air is leaking in, compressor runs constantly
Ice maker not producing ice or producing small/hollow cubes	Clogged filter; low water pressure at the valve; inlet valve failing

What actually kills it:

• Compressor failure — the dominant end-of-life failure; expensive to fix on an old unit; almost always prompts replacement
• Saddle valve or supply line leak — a slow, hidden flood behind the fridge that causes floor, cabinet, and (in strata) unit-below damage long before it is discovered
• Clogged condenser coils → premature compressor death — the most preventable failure; years of dust accumulation force the compressor to overheat

When to replace vs repair

Situation	Do this
Minor repair (door gasket, water filter, defrost drain flush, coil cleaning) on any-age fridge	Repair — all are low-cost, reversible, owner-doable
Ice maker or inlet valve failure, fridge under 10 years	Repair — part typically $50–$150; labour $150–$300
Thermostat or evaporator fan motor failure	Repair if fridge is under 12 years; total repair ~$200–$450910
Control board failure	Repair if under 10 years ($300–$600)10; replace if older
Compressor replacement quoted, fridge under 8–10 years	Repair — but get the compressor warranty; quotes run $400–$900 in BC911
Compressor replacement quoted, fridge 12+ years	Replace — compressor cost alone approaches 50% of a new unit
Repair quote > 50–60% of a comparable new unit’s price	Replace — the trade standard (sources differ: 50%4 vs 60%5; use more than half as the practical trigger)
Fridge 15+ years old, any significant failure	Replace — past its design life4
Persistent leaks from sealed system (refrigerant)	Replace — sealed-system work is expensive and often not warranted on older units

Verdict: most refrigerator repairs — gaskets, filters, fans, drain clears — are low-cost and reversible; they don’t cross either the irreversible or >$500thresholdanddo{n}^{\prime }tneedthefull[[TheDecisionLifecycle|DecisionLifecycle]]treatment.\ast \ast Theexceptioniscompressorreplacementonamid-agefridge\ast \ast :therepairitselfruns$400–$900+{[}^9]{[}^{1}1]andrepresentsasignificantspendonanappliancethatmayfailagainsoon.Thiscrossesthe>$500 threshold. Whether it crosses the “irreversible” threshold depends on fridge age — on a 10-year-old unit, spending $700onacompressorisrecoverable(thefridgehasyearsleft);ona14-year-oldunit,thesamespendiseffectivelyirreversiblegiventhelikelyremaininglife.Whenfridgeageis12+yearsANDtherepairquoteis>$500, treat this as a Decision Lifecycle decision — get 2–3 quotes, factor in energy savings from a new unit, and decide with full information.

Typical cost (BC / Metro Vancouver)

Tier	What’s included	Range	Sources
DIY / parts only	Braided stainless supply line (¼” × 6–10 ft) + compression fittings; or water filter replacement; or door gasket seal — you supply labour	$20–$80 per item	37 — indicative (limited sources)
Basic — common repair	Appliance technician: thermostat, door gasket, evaporator fan motor, ice maker module, defrost drain — diagnostic + labour + parts	$150–$450	91012
Standard — compressor or sealed system	Compressor replacement including refrigerant handling (licensed technician); or control board + programming	$450–$900	91113
Premium — full replacement	New fridge (basic top-freezer $600–$1,000; mid-range French door/bottom-freezer $1,200–$2,500; premium/built-in $2,500–$6,000+); add $200–$400 for delivery and haul-away through a strata building	$600–$6,000+ depending on type	14 — indicative (limited sources)

Metro Vancouver diagnostic/service fees run CAD $120–$180, often credited toward repair cost.¹²¹³ A premium-brand fridge (Miele, Sub-Zero) can cost $300–$600 for a basic repair due to parts availability.¹² Get 2–3 quotes for any repair over $300 — the tier table helps you spot whether a quote is basic-scope or compressor-scope.

Supply-line plumbing work (saddle valve → proper T-fitting) by a licensed plumber: add $150–$300 for the plumber call, on top of any appliance technician costs.

New refrigerator pricing is from Canadian retailer ranges (Canadian Appliance, Best Buy Canada, Home Depot Canada) — treat as indicative; prices vary by model, promotions, and retailer. No single BC-specific price survey was available; these ranges are consistent with national Canadian pricing.

How to maintain it — the procedures

Procedure: Clean the condenser coils — every 6–12 months

Why: Dust-coated coils cannot release heat — the compressor overworks, draws more electricity, and fails early. This is the single highest-leverage maintenance action on a fridge.⁶

You’ll need: coil brush (sold at hardware stores for ~$10) or vacuum with brush attachment, flashlight; ~15–20 min.

1. MUST unplug the refrigerator before touching the coils.
2. Locate the coils — on most fridges they are at the bottom front behind a kick plate (pull off the plate), or at the back of older units.
3. Slide or tip the kick plate off. Use the coil brush to loosen dust from the coil fins, working from side to side.
4. Vacuum up loosened debris from the coils and the floor underneath.
5. If accessible, clean the condenser fan blades with a damp cloth.
6. Replace the kick plate and plug in the fridge.

Done when: coils are visually free of dust/hair buildup and the vacuum no longer pulls debris.

Stop and call a pro if: you see ice on the coils (a different problem — evaporator coils inside the unit; call a technician), or the fan does not run after plugging back in.

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Procedure: Inspect and replace the supply line — every 6 months (visual); replace at 5–7 years on plastic

Why: a cracked or dripping supply line behind the fridge is one of the most common sources of slow hidden water damage. The line and both fittings are invisible when the fridge is in place.¹³

You’ll need: flashlight; replacement braided stainless line ($20–$40 at any hardware store) if replacing; adjustable wrench; bucket or towel; ~20–30 min.

1. Pull the fridge away from the wall. Turn off the shutoff valve (ball valve under the sink, or — if you have a saddle valve — the saddle valve itself; note that saddle valves often don’t fully close).
2. With a flashlight, inspect the full length of the supply line from the wall connection to the inlet fitting at the back of the fridge. Look for:
   • White mineral crust or green corrosion at either fitting
   • Kinks in the line
   • Any wet spots or staining on the floor
   • Cracking or discolouration on a plastic line
3. If the line is plastic and more than 5–7 years old, or if you see any of the above signs, replace it now with braided stainless.
4. To replace: disconnect the line at both ends (bucket or towel ready), install the new line, hand-tighten both fittings then snug with a wrench (do NOT over-tighten — one additional quarter-turn past hand-tight is enough).
5. Turn the water back on, let the ice maker cycle, and check both fittings for drips.
6. If you have a saddle valve: this is the right moment to call a plumber to replace it with a proper T-fitting and ball valve.¹²

Done when: no moisture at either fitting after 10 minutes with water running; line is braided stainless with no kinks.

Stop and call a pro if:

• The shutoff valve won’t close → shut the in-suite main and call a plumber → emergency-shutoffs (Home Systems)
• You find active water damage to the floor or cabinet → document and call your insurer → insurance-warranties (Home Systems)
• You have a saddle valve → schedule plumber to replace it; do not leave it in service

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Procedure: Clear a clogged defrost drain — as needed (symptom-triggered)

Why: a blocked drain tube floods the inside of the fridge. This is one of the most common fridge problems and is fully owner-fixable.⁸

You’ll need: turkey baster or syringe; warm water; a flexible drain snake or pipe cleaner; bucket or towels; ~30 min.

1. MUST unplug the refrigerator.
2. Empty the freezer compartment and remove any freezer shelves to access the back wall.
3. Locate the drain hole — a small opening at the bottom of the freezer back wall, or in the base of the fresh-food compartment.
4. Use a turkey baster to flush warm water into the drain hole. Watch for it draining through to the drip pan underneath the fridge.
5. If blocked, use a pipe cleaner or flexible drain snake to gently clear the obstruction. A hot water and baking soda solution can help dissolve ice or organic buildup.
6. Once clear, flush again with warm water to confirm flow.
7. Replace shelves, plug in, and monitor over the next 24 hours for any re-pooling.

Done when: warm water flows freely through the drain to the drip pan; no pooling recurs inside the fridge.

Stop and call a pro if: the drain re-clogs within a few weeks (may indicate a defrost heater or timer failure); or if you find the evaporator coils are a solid block of ice (requires defrost cycle reset or heating element repair).

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Procedure: Test and clean the door gasket — every 6 months

Why: a failed gasket lets warm humid air in; the compressor runs constantly, energy use rises, and condensation may form inside the cabinet.⁶⁷

You’ll need: a dollar bill; mild dish soap; damp cloth; ~10 min.

1. Close the door on a dollar bill, then try to slide it out with moderate pull. Do this at 3–4 points around the door perimeter.
2. If the bill slides out easily → the gasket is not sealing at that point.
3. Clean the full gasket with warm soapy water, removing food debris and mold from the folds. A flexible rubber gasket often reseals better after a thorough clean.
4. If the gasket is cracked, torn, or still fails the dollar-bill test after cleaning → replace it (an appliance technician can do this for $150–$250⁹).

Done when: the dollar bill has noticeable resistance all the way around the door.

Stop and call a pro if: the door frame itself is warped or the hinge is bent — a misaligned door causes the same symptoms but cannot be fixed by a gasket alone.

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Maintenance calendar:

• Every 6 months: inspect supply line + connections behind fridge; replace water filter; test door gasket (dollar-bill test); check drip pan for overflow.
• Every 6–12 months: clean condenser coils (monthly if you have pets).
• As needed (symptom-triggered): clear defrost drain when water pools inside fridge or on floor.
• At 5–7 years on a plastic supply line: proactive replacement with braided stainless.
• On move-in / first month: locate the water supply shutoff valve, confirm it works; check supply line material; confirm whether valve is saddle or ball type.

Strata reality

Water supply line leaks in strata: the fridge water supply line is owner-maintained plumbing. A supply-line leak that escapes the unit — to the unit below, into common property, or through the building structure — follows the same deductible-chargeback exposure as any other in-unit water loss. Under SPA s.158 and “responsible for” bylaw language, the strata can charge its deductible (commonly $25,000–$250,000+ in Metro Vancouver) back to you without a finding of negligence.¹⁵¹⁶

• A saddle valve leak or a cracked plastic line found by the strata’s water-damage restoration company is evidence that in-unit plumbing was not maintained in good working order.
• The SPA s.135 procedural protection still applies: the strata must give you written notice and a chance to respond before levying a charge. Keep records of your supply-line inspections and replacements.

Appliance responsibility: the refrigerator itself is your unit’s contents — the strata corporation does not maintain, repair, or replace it. If the fridge floods common property, strata claims on its master policy and charges back the deductible to you.

DIY vs. pro line: replacing a refrigerator (power, pull out, slide in, reconnect water line) does not require a trade permit. If you are re-doing the water supply connection (new T-fitting, new ball valve), that is a plumbing job — call a licensed plumber for the valve work, which does not require a permit in most BC jurisdictions but must be done correctly to avoid a future liability claim.

Detached-home note: the same supply-line and coil-cleaning risks apply; the strata deductible-chargeback mechanic does not. Insurance exposure is between you and your own home insurer.

When you hire someone

Ask (appliance technician):

• Certified appliance technician? Insured? What’s the service call / diagnostic fee, and is it credited toward repair?
• Is a repair quote available before work starts?
• Warranty on parts and labour (look for 90 days minimum)?
• If the compressor is quoted: is it a new or remanufactured unit? What’s the compressor-specific warranty?
• Do you carry parts for my brand, or do they need to be ordered?

Verify the work:

• Fridge holds correct temperature (35–38°F / 2–3°C fresh food; 0°F / -18°C freezer) within a few hours of repair
• Ice maker cycling and producing full-sized cubes
• No drip at the supply-line fittings after water is restored
• Door gasket passes the dollar-bill test
• Invoice with parts description and warranty terms in writing

Ask (plumber — saddle valve replacement):

• Licensed plumber (TSBC-registered / Red Seal)?
• Will you install a ball valve, not another saddle valve?
• Line material going in — braided stainless or copper?
• Any strata logistics (water shutoff coordination, elevator booking)?

Verify the plumber’s work:

• New ball valve (lever-handled, ¼-turn) visible on the supply pipe
• No plastic braided line older than the new valve; braided stainless confirmed
• Both fittings dry after 10 minutes under pressure
• Old saddle valve removed (or line capped), not just abandoned in place

Who to call

• Appliance technician → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: company name, phone, brands serviced, service call fee, warranty terms.
• Licensed plumber (for saddle valve / supply line work) → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: phone, TSBC registration, strata-building experience.
• Insurer / broker → insurance-warranties (Home Systems). Fill: policy #, confirm whether contents policy covers water-damage deductible chargebacks from appliance leaks.
• Strata manager → Strata MOC. Fill: after-hours emergency line; confirm in-unit water shutoff procedure.

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Sources

Idea Compass

North: Where this comes from

• Kitchen (Home Systems) — parent system
• Saddle Valves Are the Leading Cause of Hidden Refrigerator Water Damage (Home Systems) — the load-bearing supply-line risk
• The Decision Lifecycle — the repair-vs-replace framing

East: Tensions / failure

• Refrigerator Repair vs Replace Uses the 50 Percent Rule (Home Systems) — the tension between repair cost and replacement cost
• Refrigerator Ice Maker Supply Line Should Be Braided Stainless Not Plastic (Home Systems) — the supply-line material tension
• The Strata Insurance Circularity Problem — the deductible-chargeback exposure this creates

South: Where this leads

• vendor-roster (Home Systems) — the appliance technician and plumber named-resource cards
• insurance-warranties (Home Systems) — the water-damage coverage question
• emergency-shutoffs (Home Systems) — where to go when the supply line ruptures
• Refrigerator Defrost Drain Clog Is Owner-Fixable But Overlooked (Home Systems) — the downstream fix for a common failure

West: What’s similar

• supply-lines (Home Systems) — the washing-machine / dishwasher hose analogue; same strata deductible-chargeback exposure
• water-heater (Home Systems) — same strata flood-risk pattern; same repair-vs-replace decision
• washing-machine (Home Systems) — sibling appliance with the same supply-line flood risk
• dishwasher (Home Systems) — sibling in-unit appliance; same strata exposure

Footnotes

1. Structure Tech Home Inspections / Star Tribune — why saddle valves are problematic, prone to leakage, and not permitted under many plumbing codes; recommended alternative is a proper T-fitting with ball valve — https://structuretech.com/saddle-valves-cheap-easy-and-wrong/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵

2. Nonprofit Home Inspections (Oregon/Washington home inspection resource) — self-piercing saddle valves notorious for leaks, prohibited by many local jurisdictions; thermal expansion causes seals to fail; repair costs reach thousands; recommended alternative is a T-valve — https://nonprofithomeinspections.org/what-is-a-self-piercing-saddle-valve-why-should-they-be-avoided/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

3. Beacon Saves — refrigerator water line material comparison; plastic lines become brittle with age, crack behind appliances where leaks go undetected; many insurers warn against plastic fridge lines; braided stainless steel is the current recommended standard — https://www.beaconsaves.com/blog/what-water-line-should-i-use-for-my-refrigerator ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵ ↩⁶

4. Mr. Appliance — refrigerator lifespan by type; standard fridges 10–18 yr, average 14 yr; compact 4–12 yr; the 50% rule: if repair exceeds 50% of replacement cost, replace — https://www.mrappliance.com/blog/what-is-the-lifespan-of-your-refrigerator-/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

5. Appliancerepairingta.com — refrigerator compressor repair costs in Canada; 50% rule for repair-vs-replace; consider replacing if fridge is 8–10+ years old and repair approaches half of new unit price — https://appliancerepairingta.com/2025/12/15/compressor-repair-costs-in-canada/ ↩ ↩²

6. EasyFix Appliance Repair (Vancouver-based) — condenser coil cleaning; dirty coils are the #1 cause of refrigerator breakdowns; can increase energy consumption by 30%; pet owners should clean monthly; maintenance extends fridge life 3–5 years; 2025 guide — https://easyfixrepair.ca/blog/refrigerator-maintenance-tips-2025/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

7. iFixit — refrigerator maintenance guide; water filter replacement every 6 months; clogged filter reduces water flow by 75%; door seal dollar-bill test; drip pan cleaning every 6 months — https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Refrigerator_Maintenance ↩ ↩² ↩³

8. EZFIX Appliance Repair (Canadian source) — defrost drain clog symptoms (water pooling inside fridge, frost on back wall), DIY fix steps (warm water flush, baking soda), professional repair $100–$300 when DIY fails — https://ezfixappliance.ca/refrigerator-repair/refrigerator-defrost-drain-problems/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

9. Tech Angels Vancouver — refrigerator repair in Vancouver BC; range $150–$450 for most repairs; compressor $400–$700 including parts and labour; 3-month warranty on parts and labour — https://tech-angels.ca/services/refrigerator-repair/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵

10. Master Appliance (Ontario cost guide used for repair-type breakdown) — thermostat $150–$300; control board $300–$600; evaporator fan motor $200–$450; diagnostic $80–$130, often credited toward repair; labour $90–$150/hr — https://masterappliance.ca/refrigerator-repair-cost-ontario-breakdown/ (Ontario figures; Metro Vancouver typically $50–$100 higher per repair call) ↩ ↩² ↩³

11. ERT Appliance Services — average refrigerator repair cost Canada 2025; BC range $275–$600; compressor $400–$900 CAD; replace if repair exceeds 60% of new unit price or fridge is over 10–12 years old — https://ertapplianceservices.ca/blog/average-cost-repair-refrigerator-canada-2025/ ↩ ↩²

12. Barton Appliance Repair (North Vancouver) — 2026 Vancouver area pricing guide; refrigerator repairs $180–$450 CAD; diagnostic $120–$180 (credited toward repair); compressor / sealed system $600–$1,000; premium brands (Miele, Bosch) $250–$600; Whirlpool/LG $130–$300 — https://bartonappliancerepair.com/appliance-repair-in-north-vancouver-2026-cost-pricing-guide/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

13. Evo Appliances (Vancouver) — 2026 pricing guide; refrigerator repairs $150–$400; flat-rate quoting, service call credited toward repair — https://evoappliances.ca/affordable-appliance-repair-in-vancouver-2026-pricing-guide-money-saving-tips/ ↩ ↩²

14. Best Buy Canada — refrigerator listings 2026; price filter categories include models <$1,000(top-freezer),$1,000–$2,999(Frenchdoor/bottom-freezer),and$3,000+ (high-capacity or premium brands); see current listings at https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/category/refrigerators/34424 — indicative; verify at purchase as prices vary by model and promotion. A wider survey of Canadian retailers (Canadian Appliance Source, Home Depot Canada) is consistent with this range; no single canonical BC-specific price survey was available. ↩

15. Perpetual Strata & Realty, BC strata management company — strata insurance water leaks; SPA s.158 deductible chargeback; Metro Vancouver water-damage deductibles $25,000–$250,000+; “responsible for” bylaw language allows chargeback without negligence finding — https://perpetualstrata.ca/strata-insurance-water-leaks-bc-responsibility/ ↩

16. Strata Property Act [SBC 1998] Chapter 43, s.158 — deductible recovery authority; the governing statute — BC Laws — https://www.bclaws.gov.bc.ca/civix/document/id/complete/statreg/98043_09 ↩