windows (Home Systems)

Windows

• What this is: how your windows work, what actually fails, and what an owner can do vs what needs a pro — covering sealed-unit failure, water ingress, interior condensation, and repair vs replacement; applies to strata and detached homes in BC.
• Not: exterior cladding or flashing as a building system (see siding (Home Systems), caulking-seals (Home Systems)); HVAC and ventilation strategy (see ventilation (Home Systems)); exterior doors (see doors (Home Systems)).
• Figures: 2025–26 Metro Vancouver estimates — get your own quotes. IGU and full-window costs vary widely by size, frame material, and whether it’s a retrofit or full-frame job.

Bottom line

The rule (tripwire)

• If you see fogging or condensation BETWEEN the panes of a double- or triple-glazed unit → the seal has failed. The IGU (insulated glass unit / sealed unit) needs replacing — not the whole window. A glass shop replaces the glass pack while keeping the existing frame.¹ This is the most common window problem and the most commonly misunderstood.
• If water is appearing inside your home near a window after rain → treat it as wall intrusion until proven otherwise. Water wicks laterally through insulation and framing before it shows up at the interior surface; the window frame may not be the entry point at all. Caulking the visible gap without locating the true path makes the wall wetter. Get a leak-detection assessment first.²
• If condensation appears ON the interior glass surface (can be wiped away from inside) → this is a humidity/ventilation problem, not a window failure. A high-efficiency window in a poorly ventilated home will still show interior condensation because the air is too humid. Fix ventilation first.³
• If you see rot, warping, or structural damage in wood frames, or frames that are no longer sealing on closure → plan full window replacement. Frame failure is irreversible; IGU-only replacement does not help a failed frame.

Recurring upkeep

• Clear weep holes annually (each fall before the rainy season). These are the small slots at the bottom exterior edge of the frame that drain any water collecting in the track. A clogged weep hole turns a tiny splash into interior flooding.⁴
• Inspect perimeter caulking once a year. Look for cracking, pulling away from edges, or visible gaps — especially at the bottom corners where rainwater concentrates.² A tube of paintable silicone caulk is a DIY repair; failed flashing is not.
• Clean window tracks and wipe sills quarterly. Debris in tracks prevents complete closure (air leakage + possible seal damage).

One-time setup

• If you’re in a strata: read your registered strata plan and bylaws before spending money on window work. Exterior windows are generally common property under BC law, and the strata corporation may be responsible for replacing them — not you.⁵⁶ Confirm this before hiring anyone.
• Confirm your strata/personal insurance covers window-related water damage. A window leak that saturates a shared wall creates exposure under SPA s. 158⁷ deductible-chargeback rules (the same exposure as a water heater burst). → The Strata Insurance Circularity Problem

Standing facts

• Window replacement does not require a building permit in most BC municipalities for a straightforward like-for-like retrofit swap of a residential window. Some municipalities and heritage overlay zones require approval; check with your local authority.⁸
• In strata buildings, any exterior alteration (including window replacement) requires strata council approval under Standard Bylaw 8 — regardless of who is paying.

How it works — the one thing that matters

A modern residential window is three systems stacked:

1. The frame (vinyl, wood, aluminum, or fibreglass) holds everything in the rough opening and provides the air/water seal at the perimeter. Vinyl dominates Metro Vancouver installs because it doesn’t conduct heat, doesn’t rot, and needs almost no upkeep.⁹ Wood is traditional but requires periodic painting/sealing or it deteriorates in coastal BC’s rain. Aluminum conducts heat unless it has a thermal break (a plastic spacer interrupting the metal) — aluminum without a thermal break is cold to the touch and sweats.

2. The sash (the movable part, if any) holds the glass and provides the operational seal via weatherstripping when closed.

3. The IGU (insulated glass unit / sealed unit) — this is the glass sandwich. Two or three panes are separated by a spacer bar filled with desiccant, sealed at the perimeter, and the cavity is filled with argon or krypton gas (better insulator than air). The whole sealed assembly is the thermal and acoustic heart of the window.

The load-bearing mechanism — and where it fails:

The IGU seal is the critical joint. When it holds, the insulating gas stays in, moisture stays out, and the window performs to spec. When the seal fails — from age (15–25 years is typical), thermal cycling, UV degradation, or poor original installation — humid air enters the cavity. The desiccant in the spacer bar absorbs moisture until it saturates, then visible fogging or water droplets appear between the panes.

So what: the fogged IGU is not a window failure — it’s a glass-pack failure. The frame is almost always still sound. Replacing just the IGU (the glass sandwich) costs $250–$600 installed¹ versus $650–$1,800+ for a full window.¹⁰¹¹ The right question when you see fogging is “is the frame still good?” not “do I need a new window?” → Failed-Sealed-Unit-Is-IGU-Replacement-Not-Full-Window (Home Systems)

Energy ratings to know: the metric U-factor measures how much heat flows through the window (lower = better insulating). The BC Hydro/CleanBC rebate threshold is U ≤ 1.22 W/m²·K. Any double-pane low-E argon window at a reputable supplier will meet this. The Energy Rating (ER) combines U-factor, solar gain, and air leakage — look for ER ≥ 34 (ENERGY STAR Zone C for coastal BC). Triple pane adds ~15–25% to unit cost but cuts heat loss further; it pays back more slowly in mild Metro Vancouver winters than in colder inland climates.

What goes wrong, and the warning signs

Watch for	What it means
Fogging, cloudiness, or condensation trapped BETWEEN the panes (cannot be wiped from inside)	Seal failure — IGU needs replacing, not the whole window
Condensation forming ON the interior glass surface (wipes clean from inside)	Indoor humidity too high — a ventilation problem, not a window problem3
Water appearing at the window sill or interior wall after heavy rain	Water ingress — could be perimeter caulking failure, failed flashing, blocked weep holes, or lateral wall migration; get a leak assessment before caulking
Visible cracks, gaps, or pulled-away caulk at the perimeter	Sealant past its service life — re-caulk; if the gap is at a flashing joint, that’s a pro repair
Draft felt at the closed window edge	Weatherstripping failed or sash is misaligned; DIY repair in most cases
Water pooling in the track or at the interior sill	Weep holes blocked — clear them before assuming a bigger problem
Frame visibly rotting, warped, or not closing flush	Frame failure — full window replacement warranted; IGU swap won’t help
Mould on the interior sill or surrounding drywall	Extended moisture exposure — confirm source (condensation vs true leak) before treating

What actually fails (the load-bearing failures):

• IGU seal failure → fogging — the most common failure mode; starts at 10–15 years, accelerates with UV exposure and temperature cycling¹
• Perimeter caulking/flashing failure → water ingress into wall cavity — the leaky-condo lesson: water enters at the interface between the window frame and the building envelope; once in the wall, it finds its own path²
• Clogged weep holes → frame flooding and interior water — the simplest failure mode and the most preventable⁴
• Weatherstripping compression loss → air leakage and draft — causes energy loss and can accelerate sill rot; inexpensive to fix
• Frame deterioration (wood rot, UV-degraded vinyl, thermal-break failure in aluminum) — the terminal failure that makes full replacement necessary

When to replace vs repair

What you see	Do this
Fogging between panes, frame solid and closable	Replace the IGU only — keep the frame
Fogging between panes, frame rotted/warped/misaligned	Replace the full window unit
Interior surface condensation (wipes clean)	Fix ventilation first; window upgrade is secondary
Water ingress at sill after rain	Leak assessment first; caulk perimeter if that’s the source; engage building envelope pro if it’s flashing or wall intrusion
Failed weatherstripping	DIY: peel-and-stick foam or V-strip from a hardware store
Blocked weep holes	DIY: toothpick, cotton swab, compressed air — clear annually
Minor caulk cracking at perimeter	DIY: remove old caulk, clean, apply paintable silicone
Repair cost >50% of full replacement on a frame older than 15–20 years	Replace the full unit — the frame will follow12
Frame material that was never right for the climate (single-pane, no thermal break)	Replace — energy loss is ongoing and the frame won’t improve

Verdict: IGU replacement is reversible and low-cost ($250–$600) — just do it. Full window replacement is irreversible and crosses >$500peropening;itearns[[TheDecisionLifecycle]]treatmentwhenmultiplewindowsareinvolved(combinedcosteasilyreaches$5,000–$15,000+ for a full suite). The decision is almost always: fix the frame first, replace when the frame is gone. → Failed-Sealed-Unit-Is-IGU-Replacement-Not-Full-Window (Home Systems)

Typical cost (BC / Metro Vancouver)

Tier	What’s included	Range	Sources
DIY / parts only	Caulk tube + weatherstripping foam strip for perimeter sealing + track cleaning — owner-doable maintenance tasks	$15–$60 per window (materials)	14 — indicative (limited sources)
IGU replacement only	Glass-pack swap by a glass shop; existing frame and sash kept; includes removal and disposal of old unit	$250–$600 per unit installed	112 — indicative (limited sources)
Basic — retrofit window replacement	New window unit (vinyl, double-pane low-E argon) installed into existing frame opening; old unit removed; no structural work	$650–$1,400 per window installed	1011 — indicative (limited sources)
Standard — full-frame replacement	Complete removal of old frame + new window unit; includes perimeter flashing, spray foam insulation, caulking, interior and exterior trim; appropriate when frames are deteriorated or opening is being resized	$900–$1,900 per window installed	1011 — indicative (limited sources)
Premium / upgrade	Triple-pane, fibreglass frame, custom size, or bay/bow window; or full-suite replacement (14-window home)	$1,200–$3,500+ per window; full suite $12,000–$17,000	1011 — indicative (limited sources)

Metro Vancouver runs at the upper end of BC ranges. Single-window jobs cost more per unit than multi-window projects (setup and travel don’t scale down). Permit fees vary by municipality: $100–$250 where required.⁸ BC Hydro and CleanBC Better Homes offer rebates of up to $100 per window (U ≤ 1.22 W/m²·K); check betterhomesbc.ca for current amounts.¹³ Get 2–3 written quotes — confirm whether each quote includes removal, disposal, perimeter sealing, and trim.

IGU-only pricing: triangulated from a glass repair guide, window repair cost guide, and Canadian window cost guide. Vancouver-specific IGU pricing data is thin — treat as indicative; verify with a local glass shop.

How to maintain it — the procedures

Procedure: Clear weep holes — annually (each fall)

Why: weep holes drain any water that infiltrates the window frame. Blocked weep holes convert normal rain-splash into interior flooding and sill rot. This is the single most preventable window failure in Metro Vancouver’s wet climate.⁴

You’ll need:

• Toothpick, cotton swab, or soft wire
• Can of compressed air (optional)
• Garden hose for testing

Steps:

1. Locate the weep holes: small rectangular slots (8–12 mm wide) on the exterior bottom rail of each window frame — typically one near each corner.
2. Inspect each hole visually for debris — dirt, leaf matter, dead insects, deteriorated caulk.
3. Gently clear each hole with a toothpick, cotton swab, or bent wire. Work debris OUT, not further in.
4. MUST NOT use silicone caulk, tape, foam, or any sealant to “protect” the weep holes — this blocks drainage entirely.
5. Test: spray the exterior face with a garden hose for 30 seconds. Water should drain freely from the weep holes within a few seconds.

Done when: water flows freely from all weep holes with no pooling in the track.

Stop and call a pro if: water is appearing inside the home near the window sill after clearing weep holes (the entry point is not the weep holes; there is a leak elsewhere in the envelope).

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Procedure: Inspect perimeter caulking — annually

Why: the caulk bead at the interface of the window frame and the exterior wall is the primary barrier against water ingress into the wall cavity. Coastal BC’s freeze-thaw cycles and UV exposure degrade polyurethane and silicone caulk over 8–15 years.² Cracked or pulled-away caulk is the most common path for the water-ingress failure that saturates wall cavities.

You’ll need:

• Ladder (for upper-floor windows)
• Flashlight
• Paintable silicone caulk + caulk gun (if re-caulking)
• Utility knife or caulk remover tool

Steps:

1. Walk the exterior of each window. Check all four sides of the frame perimeter where the frame meets the siding or cladding.
2. Look for: cracking along the caulk bead, gaps where the bead has pulled away from the frame or wall, missing sections, or areas with visible mould (a moisture sign).
3. Pay extra attention to the bottom corners — where water concentrates and caulk fails first.
4. If caulk is cracking but still bonded: monitor; it will need replacement within a year.
5. If caulk has pulled away or is missing: remove all old caulk with a utility knife, clean the joint, apply new paintable silicone in one continuous bead, and tool smooth.
6. MUST NOT apply new caulk over old degraded caulk — new sealant does not bond reliably to failed old sealant.

Done when: every perimeter joint has a continuous, bonded caulk bead with no gaps.

Stop and call a pro if:

• Water is entering the wall even after re-caulking the perimeter (the entry point is at the flashing, not the surface caulk)
• You see the caulk is at a lap joint or flashing transition rather than a simple frame-to-siding joint (flashing repair is not a caulk job)
• The siding or sheathing behind the caulk shows rot or damage (wall repair precedes caulking)

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Procedure: Check weatherstripping and track — annually

Why: weatherstripping provides the air seal when windows close. Compressed or cracked weatherstripping causes drafts, energy loss, and moisture infiltration at the sash.

You’ll need:

• A sheet of paper
• Replacement foam tape or V-strip (from any hardware store)

Steps:

1. Close each window and insert a sheet of paper at the sash seal. Pull it out — if it slides easily with no resistance, the weatherstripping is not sealing.
2. Inspect the weatherstripping visually: foam should be resilient, not flattened or cracked; pile strips should be full, not matted.
3. For slider/casement windows: clean the track with a damp cloth, removing any debris that prevents full closure.
4. If weatherstripping is failed: peel out old material (most is adhesive-backed), clean the channel, press in new foam tape or V-strip. Available at any hardware store for under $20.
5. For tilt-turn or complex European sash systems with multiple compression seals: contact the manufacturer or a window service technician — the adjustment screws require specific tools.

Done when: paper test shows resistance at every sash edge; no draft felt with window closed.

Stop and call a pro if: the sash itself is warped, the frame is out of square, or the window won’t latch closed — weatherstripping cannot compensate for a structural alignment problem.

Maintenance calendar:

• Each fall (before the rainy season): clear weep holes + inspect perimeter caulking + test weatherstripping.
• Annually or after any significant storm: visual check of all perimeter caulk for new cracks or gaps; inspect interior sills for moisture staining.
• Every 8–15 years: plan perimeter caulk replacement as a project (all windows in one pass).
• When fogging appears between panes: contact a glass shop for IGU assessment — do not defer, moisture inside the IGU degrades further over time.

Strata reality

The key fact: exterior windows are generally common property in BC stratas.

Under the BC Strata Property Act, Standard Bylaw 8 states the strata corporation must maintain “doors, windows and skylights on the exterior of a building or that front on the common property.” SPA s. 68 places the boundary of a strata lot at the midpoint of the structural wall — which means the window frame and exterior glass sit on the strata’s side of the line.⁵⁶

This matters practically:

• The strata corporation is generally responsible for replacing failed IGUs and deteriorated frames on exterior windows, not you.
• Bylaws that try to shift window replacement costs to owners may be unenforceable — VISOA (Vancouver Island Strata Owners Association) notes that such bylaws “are likely unenforceable as these exterior elements are generally considered to be common property.”⁶
• Limited common property designations (your exclusive-use balcony windows) can shift day-to-day maintenance to owners via bylaw, but the structural replacement obligation typically remains with the strata.
• At least one BC CRT decision (Spiteri v. The Owners, Strata Plan K664, 2022 BCCRT 1228) has ordered a strata to reimburse an owner for window replacement costs when the strata failed its s. 72 maintenance duty.⁵

What this means for you as an owner:

• Before spending money on window repair or replacement, check your strata plan, the registered bylaws, and the depreciation report’s maintenance schedule.
• If the strata is responsible and is not acting, document the condition with photos + dates and submit a written repair request — this creates the paper trail for any future CRT claim or SPA s. 135 process.
• Interior maintenance (cleaning tracks, clearing interior condensation, adjusting weatherstripping on your sash) remains owner-doable and owner-responsible in all cases.

Water damage chargeback exposure: If a window failure you were aware of (and did not report or request repair on) causes water damage to a unit below or adjacent, SPA s. 158 deductible-chargeback rules may apply — “responsible for” language in bylaws can expose you to the strata’s insurance deductible without a negligence finding. Report known window defects in writing to the strata corporation promptly. → The Strata Insurance Circularity Problem

Alterations: If you want to upgrade your windows (e.g., swap single-pane for triple-pane), you need strata council approval under Standard Bylaw 8 even if you’re paying for it. The upgrade must not diminish the building’s appearance or structural integrity, and the strata may set conditions.

When you hire someone

Ask:

• For IGU replacement: are you a licensed glass shop? Do you measure on-site or require me to provide dimensions?
• For full window replacement: are you a registered contractor? Will you handle the strata council approval process or do I need to initiate that?
• Does the quote include removal and disposal of the old unit?
• Does the quote include perimeter caulking, spray foam, and trim work after installation?
• What’s the warranty on the sealed unit (typically 10–20 years on quality IGUs)?
• For water ingress: do you perform leak detection, or only repair? Have you diagnosed where the water is actually entering before quoting?

Verify the work:

• IGU installed flush with no visible spacer bar distortion or edge seal gaps
• No fogging in the new unit immediately after installation (a defective unit, not uncommon — document it immediately)
• Weep holes clear and unobstructed after installation
• Perimeter caulked in one continuous bead with no gaps
• Window opens, closes, and latches correctly
• Any permit or strata approval documentation provided

Who to call

• Glass shop (IGU replacement) → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: company name, phone, typical turnaround for IGU replacement in Metro Vancouver.
• Window installer / building envelope contractor (full replacement or water ingress) → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: company name, phone, whether they handle strata approval paperwork.
• Leak detection specialist → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: company name (e.g. AnyLeak.ca, WindowLeak.ca in Metro Vancouver), phone, service area.
• Insurer / broker → insurance-warranties (Home Systems). Fill: policy #, confirm water-damage coverage for window-related ingress and strata deductible-chargeback exposure.
• Strata manager → Strata MOC. Fill: after-hours line, process for submitting a written window repair request, confirmation of whether exterior windows are covered under strata’s maintenance schedule.

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Sources

Idea Compass

North: Where this comes from

• Structural (Home Systems) — parent system; windows as the envelope’s primary penetration
• The Decision Lifecycle — the replace-vs-repair framing for full-unit decisions
• BC Strata Property Act ss. 68, 72, Standard Bylaw 8 — the legal framework for strata window responsibility

East: Tensions / failure

• Failed-Sealed-Unit-Is-IGU-Replacement-Not-Full-Window (Home Systems) — the most common misdiagnosis: foggy window ≠ new window
• Window-Perimeter-Leak-Is-a-Wall-Problem-Not-a-Window-Problem (Home Systems) — water ingress is usually at the envelope joint, not the glass
• Interior-Window-Condensation-Is-a-Ventilation-Problem-First (Home Systems) — surface condensation → fix the air, not the glass
• Exterior-Windows-Are-Common-Property-in-BC-Strata (Home Systems) — strata responsibility vs owner assumption
• The Strata Insurance Circularity Problem — deductible-chargeback exposure if a window leak floods a neighbour
• caulking-seals (Home Systems) — the building envelope sealant that fails before the window does
• siding (Home Systems) — exterior cladding failure is often the true path for water arriving at a window

South: Where this leads

• ventilation (Home Systems) — fixing interior condensation requires addressing ventilation, not just windows
• vendor-roster (Home Systems) — glass shop + window installer + leak detection named-resource cards
• insurance-warranties (Home Systems) — water damage coverage confirmation
• CleanBC Better Homes + BC Hydro rebates — upgrade path when full replacement is warranted

West: What’s similar

• doors (Home Systems) — same perimeter flashing and weatherstripping logic; door frames are also common property in strata
• insulation (Home Systems) — wall cavity moisture from a window leak damages insulation; the failure paths connect
• water-heater (Home Systems) — same strata deductible-chargeback exposure pattern when in-unit failure causes inter-unit water damage

Footnotes

1. Argo Window Repair, a window repair service — 2026 cost guide; failed sealed unit (IGU) replacement $300–$550; full window replacement $600–$1,500; weatherstripping/caulking $50–$120; repair is 30–60% of replacement cost when frames are sound; replace when repair cost >50% of replacement on an aging frame — https://argowindowrepair.com/blog/window/window-repair-cost ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵

2. Allweathercoating, a Metro Vancouver building envelope contractor — perimeter sealant service life 10–20 years for commercial-grade sealant; “the window between ‘sealant is past service life’ and ‘active leak in a suite’ is often one wet winter season” on exposed high-rises; patching does not work on failed sealant — full replacement required; single-floor window perimeter re-sealant $3,000–$8,000 (commercial scale); WindowLeak.ca and AnyLeak.ca cited as Metro Vancouver leak detection specialists — https://allcoating.ca/resources/sealant-caulking/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

3. Centra Windows / Magic Window, window industry guides — interior surface condensation (wipes clean from inside) is a humidity problem, not a window failure; recommended indoor humidity range 30–50%; above 55% condensation becomes frequent; coastal BC conditions require active humidity management and HRV use — https://www.centrawindows.com/blog/why-is-there-condensation-on-windows ↩ ↩²

4. Installix / Family Handyman / Ecoline Windows, weep hole guides — weep holes are 8–12 mm slots at the exterior bottom rail, draining track water; clogged weep holes are a leading cause of interior water infiltration; clear annually with a toothpick or cotton swab; never seal with caulk or foam; test by spraying exterior face with hose — water should exit within seconds — https://installixwnd.ca/blog/cleaning-weep-holes-the-number-1-flood-prevention-tip/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

5. British Columbia Law Institute, legal commentary — Spiteri v. The Owners, Strata Plan K664, 2022 BCCRT 1228: strata corporation ordered to reimburse owner for window and patio door replacement cost; exterior windows treated as common property under SPA s. 68 and s. 72 — https://www.bcli.org/strata-corporation-ordered-to-reimburse-owner-for-cost-of-replacing-windows-and-patio-door/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

6. VISOA (Vancouver Island Strata Owners Association), the BC strata homeowner association — exterior windows are generally common property under BC SPA; bylaws shifting window replacement to owners “are likely unenforceable”; Standard Bylaw 8 assigns exterior window and door maintenance to the strata corporation — https://visoa.bc.ca/resources/who-pays-for-repairs-owner-or-strata/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

7. Strata Property Act (BC Laws) — the governing statute (incl. ss. 135, 158, 164) — https://www.bclaws.gov.bc.ca/civix/document/id/complete/statreg/98043_09 ↩

8. SilverLine Exteriors, Metro Vancouver installer — permit requirements: “in some Vancouver neighborhoods, specific approvals may be needed”; estimated permit cost $100–$250 in certain municipalities — https://www.silverlineexteriors.com/how-much-do-new-windows-cost-in-vancouver/ ↩ ↩²

9. Centra Windows, BC window industry guide — frame material comparison: vinyl = premier choice for residential energy efficiency, immune to rot, cost-effective; fibreglass = slightly more efficient at higher cost; aluminum = poor insulator without thermal break; wood = good thermal performance but requires periodic maintenance in coastal climates — https://www.centrawindows.com/blog/which-windows-are-most-energy-efficient ↩

10. SilverLine Exteriors, a Metro Vancouver window installer — 2026 installed window replacement cost guide; retail range $650–$1,800 per window; breakdown by window type (slider, casement, awning, picture, bay/bow); vinyl $500–$850, wood $800–$1,200+, fibreglass $900–$1,400; all prices include removal and disposal — https://www.silverlineexteriors.com/window-replacement-cost-vancouver/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

11. WindowMart, a Vancouver window supplier — 2026 Metro Vancouver range $400–$2,100 per window installed; supply-only starting prices by type (picture from $279,casementfrom$358, awning from $379) — https://windowmart.ca/window-prices-in-vancouver/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

12. Magic Window / NorthShield, Canadian window industry guides — repair vs replace: if repair cost exceeds 50% of replacement, replace; windows typically last 15–25 years depending on material and exposure; frame material cost comparison (vinyl $450–$950, fibreglass $800–$1,500, wood $900–$2,200+) per installed window across Canada — https://www.magicwindow.ca/blog/window-replacement-cost-in-canada-2025 ↩ ↩²

13. Shoreline Building Performance, BC window and door contractor — CleanBC Better Homes and BC Hydro rebate eligibility: U-factor ≤ 1.22 W/m²·K required; BC Hydro offers up to $100perwindow/door,maximum$2,000; licensed contractor installation required for rebate eligibility — https://shorelinebp.ca/windows-doors-contractors-bc-rebates/ ↩