foundation-drainage-waterproofing (Home Systems)

Foundation Drainage & Waterproofing

• What this is: how a detached home’s perimeter drain, grading, downspout discharge, exterior/interior waterproofing membranes, and window wells work together to keep water away from the foundation — what fails, how to spot it, and when a $15K–$35K+ excavation job becomes unavoidable in Metro Vancouver’s high-rainfall climate.
• Not:
  • Structural crack repair or underpinning (see a structural engineer)
  • Crawl space vapour barriers (separate component)
  • Sewer or sanitary line work (see plumbing (Home Systems))
  • In a strata: perimeter drain is common property — the strata corporation maintains it; your scope is reporting symptoms and escalating (see the Strata reality section below)
• Figures: 2025–26 Metro Vancouver estimates — get your own quotes. Foundation site conditions vary enormously; these ranges are triangulated starting points, not bids.

Bottom line

The rule (tripwire)

• If you see efflorescence (white chalky powder) on basement walls → take it seriously. Efflorescence is water moving through the wall — it is the earliest detectable warning sign. Do not seal over it without diagnosing the drainage cause.¹
• If the perimeter drain pipe is pre-1985 clay tile, or pre-2005 corrugated black plastic → plan replacement, not repair. These materials have known failure timelines (clay: 30–60 years before root intrusion; corrugated plastic: 15–25 years before crushing under soil load). A camera inspection confirms which era your pipe is.²
• **If a perimeter drain replacement is needed → this is irreversible + >$500.\ast \ast Applythe[[TheDecisionLifecycle|DecisionLifecycle]]andget3writtenquotesbeforecommitting.Exteriorreplacement($15K–$35K)isnotreversiblewithin30days;interiorretrofit($7K–$18K) is the less-disruptive fallback. See When to replace vs repair below.

Recurring upkeep

• Test the sump pump every September with a 5-gallon bucket of water before the October–March wet season. Sump failure during an atmospheric river event is a five-figure flood risk.²
• Inspect window wells each fall: clear debris, check gravel drainage, confirm the well cover is secure. Debris mats block drainage and pool water against the foundation.³
• Walk the foundation perimeter in early November during the first atmospheric river: look for pooling at the base, efflorescence on exposed concrete, and downspouts discharging too close to the foundation.

One-time setup

• Locate and photograph the sump pump pit and discharge line. Note where the discharge terminates — it must daylight away from the foundation, not toward it.
• Pull the drainage section from your home inspection report (if you have one) to confirm which pipe era your system is. If unknown, schedule a CCTV camera inspection ($295–$600⁴) before any other investment.
• Fill the vendor-roster card with a licensed drainage contractor who does camera inspections — see Who to call below.

Standing facts

• BC Building Code Section 9.14 has required a perimeter drain on every new residential build since the 1973 revision. Pre-1960 Vancouver homes often have no drain at all.²
• The City of Vancouver requires a plumbing permit for any drainage replacement or repair over 10 feet. Contractors pull this — owners cannot self-permit drainage excavation under Metro Vancouver rules.²
• Downspouts must discharge away from the foundation. Roof drainage and foundation drains must be separated per City of Vancouver policy (COV bylaw 2000-058).⁵

How it works — the one thing that matters

Rainwater and groundwater constantly press against your foundation. Metro Vancouver averages roughly 1,150 mm of rain per year — most of it arriving October through March — and the soil around a foundation compacts over decades, losing the permeability it had at construction.⁶

The system has one job: relieve hydrostatic pressure before it gets to the wall.

The load-bearing mechanism is the perimeter drain (also called weeping tile or French drain): a perforated pipe buried at footing level, bedded in drain rock and wrapped in filter fabric, that intercepts groundwater before it can build up pressure against the foundation wall. Water enters the pipe through the perforations, flows by gravity (or to a sump) and exits to daylight or storm sewer.

Three surface elements support the pipe:

• Grading — the ground surface must slope away from the foundation at minimum 2% (about 25 mm drop per 600 mm of run) for the first 1.2 m. Soil that has settled flat or toward the house channels rainfall directly to the footing.⁷
• Downspout discharge — gutters and downspouts collect roof water (a large surface area in rain). If they discharge beside the foundation, they overwhelm the perimeter drain with a concentrated load. Minimum 1.8 m extension away from the house is the practical rule; underground discharge to a separate drywell is better.⁵
• Window wells — basement windows that sit below grade require a semi-circular metal retainer (the well), filled with 300 mm minimum of 19 mm gravel and connected to the perimeter drain. Without this, water pools at the window and seeps through the frame seal.

The exterior waterproofing membrane (dimple board, elastomeric or tar-based coating applied to the foundation wall face during excavation) is the second line of defence — it slows lateral water migration through the concrete itself. It does not replace the drain; it works with it.

Interior systems (French drains inside the slab, sump pit) are a water-management fallback, not waterproofing: they collect water that has already entered and pump it out. They do not protect the wall from hydrostatic pressure or freeze-thaw cycles. Exterior is the gold standard; interior retrofit is what’s realistic when excavation is cost-prohibitive.⁸

So what: most Metro Vancouver wet-basement calls trace back to one of four compounding failures — clogged or collapsed perimeter drain, negative grade, undersized or misdirected downspout, or a degraded membrane. All four are diagnosable before the wall fails. → Hydrostatic Pressure Is the Load-Bearing Failure Mechanism in Foundation Drainage (Home Systems)

What goes wrong, and the warning signs

Watch for	What it means
White chalky powder on basement wall (efflorescence)	Water is wicking through the wall and evaporating — drainage is failing. Earliest detectable sign.1
Damp, musty smell after October rain	Moisture accumulating inside wall cavity; drainage load exceeds system capacity
Water tracking down the wall at corners	Hydrostatic pressure has found a path; drain is overwhelmed or blocked at that corner
Standing water or puddles on basement floor after heavy rain	Drain is blocked or sump pump has failed; water is entering at footing level
Pooling water against the foundation exterior	Negative grade or blocked downspout directing water to the footing
Soil has settled flat or toward the house at the foundation	Backfill has compacted; grade is now neutral or negative — re-grading needed
Window well filling with water, not draining	Well gravel is clogged or connection to drain is blocked
Sump pump running continuously or not at all	Continuous: high water table / drain blocked at input. Not at all: pump has failed or float switch is stuck.
Paint bubbling or peeling on basement walls	Moisture behind the surface; could be condensation or lateral seepage

What actually kills it:

• Collapsed or root-filled perimeter drain — the dominant failure mode. Clay tile cracks; corrugated plastic crushes; roots follow moisture into any perforation. Once the pipe no longer drains, hydrostatic pressure builds and the membrane is the only remaining line of defence.²
• Negative grade — soil settlement against the foundation negates the drain’s interception; surface water heads directly to the footing. Invisible until pooling is visible.
• Downspout dumping at the foundation — roof water is concentrated, not dispersed. A single downspout can deliver 50+ L/min to one spot during a Metro Vancouver atmospheric river event. This overwhelms a healthy perimeter drain.
• Failed sump pump during peak load — the drain is working, the pit fills, the pump is dead. All collected water has nowhere to go. Battery backup prevents this.
• Membrane dried and cracked — original tar-based coatings last 10–15 years. Once they crack, lateral seepage begins even if the drain is flowing.⁸

When to replace vs repair

What you see	Do this
Single blocked section, pipe otherwise intact	Hydro-flush (4,000 PSI) — restores flow without excavation. Lasts 3–7 years if tile is structurally sound.2
One belly, offset joint, or root-broken section under ~8 feet	Spot repair — excavate at that point only, replace the segment with rigid PVC, re-bed in drain rock.2
Two or more sides of the foundation failing	Full perimeter replacement — partial fixes on a system-wide failure just move the water to the next weak point.
Any line over 30 years old with multiple failure points	Full replacement — camera first to confirm scope, then excavate.
Pre-1985 clay tile, anywhere in the system	Plan replacement within 5 years — clay at this age has high failure probability; waiting risks an unplanned emergency job at emergency pricing.
Pre-2005 corrugated black plastic	Inspect immediately by camera; replace if any crush or sediment fill detected.
Grade negative or flat against foundation, no other drainage symptoms	Re-grade first (lowest cost fix) — see SOP below.
Downspout discharging at foundation	Add extension or underground discharge — DIY fix before spending on drain work.
Sump pump failed	Replace pump now ($450–$1,2009) — routine, reversible, do not defer.

Verdict: Hydro-flush and spot repair are reversible, low-cost decisions — just do them when indicated without further analysis. Re-grading and downspout extensions are DIY-or-light-contractor jobs under $500, also straightforward.

Full perimeter drain replacement crosses both thresholds: it is irreversible (cannot be undone within 30 days without significant added cost) and high-cost (>$500—therealisticrangestartsat$12,000 exterior, $7,000 interior). Apply the Decision Lifecycle in full: get a camera inspection to confirm the diagnosis, get 3 written quotes scoped to the same work, weigh interior vs exterior path (cost vs permanence), and check whether your home insurer covers any portion under a maintenance or water-damage rider before committing. Do not skip the camera — “I think the drain is old” is not the same as a confirmed diagnosis. → Perimeter Drain Pipe Material Era Determines Replacement Timeline (Home Systems)

Typical cost (BC / Metro Vancouver)

Tier	What’s included	Range	Sources
DIY / owner tasks	Downspout extensions (plastic or flexible elbow, 1.8 m reach); re-grading with topsoil at foundation perimeter; window well debris clearing and gravel top-up	$30–$400	23 — indicative (limited sources)
Camera inspection	CCTV drain camera down cleanout ports; video review; written report on pipe condition and location of failures	$295–$600	4 — indicative (limited sources)
Hydro-flush only	High-pressure flush at 4,000 PSI through existing cleanouts, no excavation; suitable when pipe is structurally intact but blocked	$400–$800	24 — indicative (limited sources)
Spot repair	Excavate one failure point (<8 ft pipe), replace section with rigid PVC, re-bed in drain rock and filter fabric, backfill and rough grade	$1,500–$5,000	62 — indicative (limited sources)
Sump pump replacement	Like-for-like submersible pump swap; includes disconnection, pit inspection, installation, and test; battery backup extra ($200–$600 add-on)	$450–$1,200	9 — indicative (limited sources)
Interior perimeter drain system	Interior French drain beneath slab; includes slab saw-cut, perforated pipe, drain rock, sump basin, new sump pump, concrete reinstatement; does NOT waterproof the wall face	$7,000–$18,000	68 — indicative (limited sources)
Full exterior replacement	Excavate to footing on all four sides; 4-inch perforated rigid PVC in drain rock with filter fabric; elastomeric waterproofing membrane and dimple board on foundation wall face; corner cleanouts; backfill and rough grade; City of Vancouver permit; haul-away	$15,000–$35,000+	6210
Full exterior + landscaping reinstatement	Above, plus removal and replacement of patios, walkways, garden beds, and irrigation disturbed by excavation	$25,000–$50,000	10 — indicative (limited sources)

Metro Vancouver runs at the high end of BC ranges due to urban lot constraints, clay-heavy soil, and higher labour rates. Sloped lots (East Van, Kitsilano, Mt. Pleasant) add cost — heavy machinery access and oversized sump requirements. Permits (drainage/plumbing) typically run $300–$650 and are included in contractor quotes for full replacement jobs. Get 3 written quotes for any job over $5,000 — a quote far outside Standard scope for the same job is a flag. Interior vs exterior is the most consequential scope decision (cost vs permanence); see the Verdict above.

Pricing triangulated across: Drainstar Plumbing (2026 Vancouver quote), Back 40 Landscaping (2025 Fraser Valley data), Reno Quotes Canada (2026 guide), and Vancouver General Contractors (2025 waterproofing guide). Sump pump figures from J-Z Plumbing (2025 Canada/BC guide). Camera inspection from RainTek FAQ and Mamba Drainage. Some tiers have 2–3 independent source agreement; interior system costs are narrower-sourced — treat as indicative at the lower tier.

How to maintain it — the procedures

Procedure: Annual fall foundation walk — September to October

Why: most drainage failures are visible before water gets inside. A 20-minute walk after the first serious rain catches problems when they are cheap.

You’ll need: phone camera, flashlight for window wells, ~20 minutes.

1. Walk the full perimeter of the house at the foundation base. Look for:
   • Soil level flush with or higher than the foundation — note location.
   • Standing water or saturated soil that hasn’t drained within 24 hours of rain.
   • Downspouts terminating within 1.8 m of the foundation wall.
2. Check each window well: remove any leaf debris; confirm the gravel is free of compacted organic material; confirm the metal well is still seated against the foundation without gaps.
3. Go inside and check basement walls at corners and along the base: look for fresh efflorescence (white powder), new damp patches, or paint bubbling.
4. Photograph anything new or concerning — before/after comparison over years is how you know if a slow problem is progressing.

Done when: you have a complete record of the current foundation perimeter condition with photos dated.

Stop and call a pro if: you find active water entry, new efflorescence, or soil pooling that persists more than 48 hours after rain stops. These are diagnostic triggers, not watch-and-wait items.

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Procedure: Test the sump pump — every September

Why: the sump pump is the last line of defence. If it fails during a major rain event, everything the drain collects has nowhere to go. Testing in September — before the wet season — catches a dead pump with time to replace it.

You’ll need: a 5-gallon bucket of water, ~5 minutes.

1. Locate the sump pit (usually in the basement utility area, under a lid).
2. MUST confirm the pump is plugged in and the discharge line is clear and directed away from the foundation.
3. Slowly pour the bucket of water into the pit. The pump float should activate within seconds and run until the pit is clear.
4. Listen: the pump should run smoothly with no grinding or stuttering, then shut off cleanly.
5. If the pump does not activate: check that the float arm isn’t stuck against the pit wall. If it still won’t activate, the pump has failed — replace it before November.

Done when: the pump activated on the bucket test, ran cleanly, and shut off.

Stop and call a pro if: the pump activates but runs continuously (the pit isn’t clearing — possible blockage in discharge line), the pump runs but the pit stays full, or you hear grinding/burning. A failed pump is replace-now-by-a-plumber, not DIY-repair.

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Procedure: Re-grade the foundation perimeter — as needed

Why: backfill soil compacts over years and often settles flat or toward the house. Grade that does not slope away from the foundation sends rain directly to the footing, overwhelming even a healthy perimeter drain.

You’ll need: topsoil or clean fill, a level or line level, a rake, ~1–4 hours per side depending on length.

1. Using a line level, check the slope at the foundation: mark the soil level at the wall, then 1.2 m out. The outer point MUST be at least 25–30 mm lower than the wall point (a 2%+ slope away from the building).⁷
2. If flat or negative: add topsoil against the foundation and slope it outward. Do not raise soil above the top of the foundation wall or against wood framing — leave a 150 mm gap below any wood.
3. Re-check with the level. Compact lightly with your foot; fresh fill will settle slightly.
4. MAY be combined with adding downspout extensions if the ground near the downspout is also flat.

Done when: visible slope away from the house along the full perimeter; no flat or negative sections within 1.2 m of the wall.

Stop and call a pro if: the foundation wall is below neighbouring grade and there is no practical way to slope away (this is a drainage engineering problem, not a topsoil fix).

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Maintenance calendar:

• Every September: sump pump test (bucket test); inspect discharge line clear and directed away from foundation.
• Early November (first atmospheric river): foundation perimeter walk — grade, pooling, downspouts, efflorescence check; window well debris clearing.
• Every 3–7 years (or after any sign of slow drainage): CCTV camera inspection of perimeter drain via cleanout ports. Schedule proactively, not reactively.
• At purchase of any pre-1985 home: immediate camera inspection — clay tile drains at this age are at or past their end of life.
• Sump pump replacement: every 7–10 years as a lifecycle item, regardless of test results.⁹

Strata reality — owner vs common property

Perimeter foundation drainage is common property in BC strata. The Strata Property Act defines common property as land and building elements shown on the strata plan that are not part of a strata lot — and the foundational drainage system (weeping tile, waterproofing membrane, foundation wall exterior) runs under the common land and serves all units. BC Civil Resolution Tribunal case Chapel v The Owners, SP VIS 1517 (2017 BCCRT 5) confirmed that perimeter drainage in a yard benefiting multiple lots is common property.¹¹

Owner scope in a strata is limited to:

• Reporting symptoms (efflorescence, damp, pooling near the foundation perimeter) to the strata council in writing, promptly.
• Maintaining your own window well if it is within your strata lot boundary or limited common property (check your strata plan).
• Your in-unit sump pump, if one exists within your unit (check bylaws — some stratas own the sump).

What the strata must do:

• Maintain, repair, and renew the perimeter drain and exterior foundation waterproofing as part of their common property obligations (SPA s.72).
• Include the drainage system in the depreciation report and reserve fund funding plan (the same excavation costs above apply to the strata’s planning).

SPA s.158¹² and water damage: if a blocked common-property drain causes water to enter your unit and damage it, the strata’s insurance covers the claim — but the strata deductible (commonly $25K–$100K+) can be charged back to the owner if the strata bylaws use “responsible for” language and the loss originated in your unit or was due to your failure to report. Reporting symptoms in writing as soon as you see them is your procedural defence. SPA s.135 requires the strata to give you written particulars and a chance to respond before levying a chargeback.

The SPA s.135 procedural protection: if the strata attempts to charge you for drainage work or damage, they must give you written particulars and a reasonable opportunity to respond before the levy. Document all repair requests and keep your own maintenance records (window well cleaning, reporting dates).

Detached-home note: no strata chargeback risk, but the full scope of diagnosis, contractor selection, permit, and cost falls entirely on the owner. The costs above are yours to bear directly — which is why proactive camera inspection and the Decision Lifecycle apply in full.

When you hire someone

Ask:

• Licensed drainage contractor or licensed plumber, TSBC-registered, insured, and carrying their own liability insurance?
• Will you pull the City of Vancouver plumbing permit and schedule inspection?
• Camera inspection before any work — will you show me the video and the written report?
• Exact scope: which sides of the foundation, what pipe material (rigid PVC or HDPE only — not corrugated), how deep to footing, drain rock spec, filter fabric, dimple board included?
• Foundation waterproofing membrane — elastomeric or tar? What’s the stated lifespan?
• Corner cleanouts included (required under 2011+ BC Code)?
• Landscaping restoration: what is in scope vs what I need to arrange separately?
• Warranty on materials and workmanship — what is the term?
• Paid invoice and permit/inspection documents for my files?

Verify the work:

• Permit issued and inspection passed before backfill — do not allow backfill without a passed rough-in inspection
• Video of the new pipe in the trench before cover (photo at minimum of each side)
• Cleanout caps at corners accessible above grade
• Sump pump tested with the new system connected
• Discharge line terminus confirmed away from foundation
• No negative grade reintroduced by the backfill — check slope within a week of completion

Who to call

• Licensed drainage contractor (TSBC-registered) → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: company name, phone, licence class, notes on permit-pulling and camera inspection capability.
• Structural engineer → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: for any crack that widens over time, wall movement, or if a contractor recommends work you want an independent second opinion on.
• Insurer / broker → insurance-warranties (Home Systems). Fill: confirm whether your policy covers foundation drainage failure, water backup, and what the deductible is for a water-in-basement claim.
• Strata manager (strata only) → Strata MOC. Fill: after-hours line, reporting procedure for drainage symptoms, how to trigger a depreciation report inspection.

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Sources

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Idea Compass

North: Where this comes from

• Hydrostatic Pressure Is the Load-Bearing Failure Mechanism in Foundation Drainage (Home Systems) — the physics this whole system fights
• Structural (Home Systems) — parent system
• BC Building Code Section 9.14 — the regulatory requirement since 1973⁷

East: Tensions / failure

• Perimeter Drain Pipe Material Era Determines Replacement Timeline (Home Systems) — why the pipe age matters more than symptoms
• Exterior Foundation Waterproofing Is the Gold Standard But Interior Is the Realistic Retrofit (Home Systems) — the cost-vs-protection tradeoff
• The Decision Lifecycle — the irreversible + high-cost replacement decision requires the full process

South: Where this leads

• vendor-roster (Home Systems) — the drainage contractor and structural engineer named-resource cards
• insurance-warranties (Home Systems) — water backup coverage and foundation drainage coverage gap
• Grading Away From Foundation Is the First and Cheapest Defence (Home Systems) — the owner-doable first fix before any excavation spend

West: What’s similar

• gutters-drainage (Home Systems) — the upstream surface drainage system that feeds into foundation drainage load
• water-heater (Home Systems) — high-cost, high-consequence replacement decision with the same Decision Lifecycle logic
• sump-pump-sewage-ejector (Home Systems) — the mechanical component at the heart of the interior drainage path

Footnotes

1. AnyLeak, Metro Vancouver water leak detection service — efflorescence as earliest reliable indicator of water moving through foundation walls; musty odour, peeling paint, and damp spots as progressive indicators; Metro Vancouver coastal climate + freeze-thaw risk context — https://anyleak.ca/detect-basement-water-entry-in-metro-vancouver/ ↩ ↩²

2. Mamba Drainage Services, Metro Vancouver drainage contractor — perimeter drainage system eras, replacement vs repair criteria, maintenance protocol (efflorescence → musty smell → seepage → standing water severity ladder), City of Vancouver permit requirements, September sump test, and November perimeter walk recommendations — https://mambadrainageservices.com/drainage-service/perimeter-drainage-vancouver/ (page fetched June 2026; only descriptive tier data, no dollar figures; confirmed by Drainstar and RainTek for scope definitions) ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵ ↩⁶ ↩⁷ ↩⁸ ↩⁹ ↩¹⁰ ↩¹¹

3. 604 Pressure Washing, a Vancouver exterior services company — window well drainage in Vancouver; debris mat formation; Metro Vancouver October–March wet season sustained-rainfall risk; gravel sizing (19 mm) and 300 mm minimum depth spec — https://604pressurewashing.ca/why-your-vancouver-homes-window-wells-are-creating-basement-flooding-risks-and-how-pressure-washing-prevents-water-damage/ ↩ ↩²

4. RainTek, Victoria BC drainage and waterproofing contractor — CCTV drain camera inspection starts ~$295;interiorFrenchdrainsystem$2,000–$10,000; full perimeter installation cost varies; 18–24 month maintenance check recommendation; roof drainage and foundation drain separation requirement noted — https://www.raintek.ca/about/common-drainage-questions ↩ ↩² ↩³

5. City of Vancouver, BC municipal government — separation of roof drainage and foundation drains policy (bylaw reference 2000-058); downspout discharge requirements — https://vancouver.ca/files/cov/2000-058-separation-of-roof-drainage-and-foundation-drains.pdf ↩ ↩²

6. Drainstar Plumbing, Metro Vancouver drainage contractor — 2026 drain tile installation cost guide; interior $6,000–$15,000 ($60–$110/lf), exterior $15,000–$35,000+ ($150–$300/lf); spot repair $800–$3,500; sump pump included in exterior scope at $1,500–$3,500 — https://drainstarplumbing.ca/drain-tile-installation-cost/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

7. Province of BC, BC government — BC Building Code 2018 Section 9.14 Drainage; foundation perimeter drain required unless demonstrably unnecessary; granular layer minimum 125 mm beneath footing, extending 300 mm beyond outside edge; surface grading must prevent water accumulation at or near the building — https://free.bcpublications.ca/civix/document/id/public/bcbc2018/bcbc_2018dbp9s914 ↩ ↩² ↩³

8. Reno Quotes Canada, national cost guide (2026) — foundation waterproofing Canada: tar membrane lifespan 10–15 years in Canadian climate; elastomeric membrane lifespan 40+ years; exterior is “gold standard”; interior is water management not protection; per linear foot $80–$350; standard 100–120 lf project $15,000–$35,000 — https://renoquotes.com/en/blog/foundation-waterproofing-costs ↩ ↩² ↩³

9. J-Z Plumbing Services, BC plumbing company — sump pump replacement Canada 2025 guide; pedestal pump installed $300–$500; submersible installed $500–$1,200; Vancouver / Lower Mainland range $450–$1,200; average sump pump lifespan 7–10 years with maintenance; battery backup add-on $200–$600 — https://jzplumbing.ca/how-much-does-it-cost-to-replace-a-sump-pump-in-canada-updated-for-2025/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

10. Back 40 Landscaping, Fraser Valley / Metro Vancouver landscaping and drainage contractor — perimeter drainage installation cost 2025: new construction $10,000–$20,000; existing home (no landscaping) $15,000–$25,000; existing home with landscaping removal and reinstatement $25,000–$50,000 — https://back40landscaping.ca/education-center/perimeter-drainage-cost-the-fraser-valley ↩ ↩²

11. Clicklaw Wikibooks (Law Students’ Legal Advice Program, UBC) — BC Strata Property Act common property definition; Chapel v The Owners, SP VIS 1517 (2017 BCCRT 5) confirming perimeter drainage serving multiple lots is common property; integration test for shared systems; SPA s.72 strata corporation maintenance obligation — https://wiki.clicklaw.bc.ca/index.php/Common_Property_and_Common_Assets_(22:V) ↩

12. Strata Property Act (BC Laws) — the governing statute (incl. ss. 135, 158, 164) — https://www.bclaws.gov.bc.ca/civix/document/id/complete/statreg/98043_09 ↩