locks-keys (Home Systems)

Locks & Keys

• What this is: how your exterior door locks work, what to do on move-in, how to choose and maintain them, and how strata changes the rules — for any BC home.
• Not: alarm systems (see alarm-system (Home Systems)); video doorbells (see doorbell (Home Systems)); building access fobs or the strata master-key system (strata-controlled); smart-home integration beyond the lock itself (see smart-devices (Home Systems)).
• Figures: 2025–26 Metro Vancouver estimates — get your own quotes.

Bottom line

The rule (tripwire)

• On move-in, rekey (or replace) every exterior lock before you sleep there. You do not know how many key copies exist — previous owners, realtors, tradespeople, neighbours, and the original construction master-key may all be in circulation. Rekeying is $50–$100 per lock + a service-call fee; it is the cheapest highest-impact security action you will ever take.¹²
• If a lock is physically damaged, won’t deadlatch, or is Grade 3 on an exterior door → replace it. A cheap Grade 3 deadbolt can be defeated with a single kick; Grade 1 or 2 on exterior doors is the minimum worth having.³⁴
• If you are in a strata: check your bylaws before changing or adding hardware to the unit door. The door itself is often common property; lock changes may require written strata approval even when you pay for it.⁵⁶

Recurring upkeep

• Lubricate and test every deadbolt annually. A sticky or slow throw is the warning sign before binding failure — a $3 graphite-powder application takes 2 minutes.
• Test that every deadbolt fully extends (minimum 1-inch throw) and retracts cleanly every 6–12 months. A throw that stops short no longer locks the door.

One-time setup

• Upgrade the strike plates on all exterior doors with 3-inch screws into the framing, not just the jamb — this is the actual defence against kick-in. The lock grade is secondary to the strike anchoring; most forced entries are frame failures, not lock failures.⁷⁸
• If you install a smart lock, keep a physical-key cylinder as a fallback. A dead battery or connectivity failure locks you out; a key override prevents this.⁹
• In strata: ask your strata manager in writing whether your unit door is lot or common property, and whether you need written approval to rekey or replace hardware. Do this before touching anything.

Standing facts

• ANSI/BHMA Grade 1 is the highest residential standard (800,000-cycle + 10-strike test); Grade 2 is acceptable for exterior residential doors; Grade 3 is not adequate for exterior entry doors.³⁴
• The lock grade only matters if the strike plate and framing can hold. A Grade 1 deadbolt on a poorly-anchored strike plate fails the same way as a Grade 3.

How it works — the one thing that matters

A deadbolt locks the door by driving a hardened steel bolt (the “throw”) into a strike plate recessed into the door frame. The bolt and the strike are rated separately from the lock cylinder. So the security chain has three independent links:

1. The cylinder — the part you key. ANSI grade governs how hard it is to pick, drill, or rake.
2. The bolt — must throw at least 1 inch and be hardened against sawing.
3. The strike plate + anchoring screws — where almost all real-world forced entries fail.

The load-bearing insight: in a forced-entry kick, the door frame splinters before the lock ever yields. The standard factory-installed strike plate uses ½–¾-inch screws that go into the thin jamb trim, not the stud behind it. One kick splits the jamb and rips the strike free. Replacing those screws with 3-inch screws that reach the structural stud behind the jamb transfers the kick force into the framing instead — and stops most residential kick-in attempts in their tracks.⁷⁸

So what: the highest-leverage security upgrade is NOT buying a more expensive lock cylinder. It is driving 3-inch screws through the existing (or a reinforced) strike plate into the stud. After that, Grade 1 or 2 deadbolt + a solid strike plate is the complete hardening. → Strike Plate With 3-Inch Screws Into Framing Is the Real Kick-In Defence (Home Systems)

Key control: every key copy is a permanent access credential. Previous owners, contractors, property managers, and the original construction crew may all have working copies. You cannot detect this — rekeying is the only remedy. → Rekey Every Exterior Lock On Move-In — You Do Not Know Who Holds a Copy (Home Systems)

What goes wrong, and the warning signs

Watch for	What it means
Sticky or sluggish bolt	Worn cylinder pins, dirty mechanism, or a door that has shifted out of square — lubricate and test; may need a locksmith
Bolt that won’t throw fully (stops short)	Frame has shifted, or the lock is worn; the door is not actually locked when the key turns
Key that turns but bolt doesn’t move	Worn cam inside the lock body — the lock is failing; replace it
Strike plate that wiggles, looks cracked, or has chipped wood around it	Previous kick attempt or wood rot — the frame has been compromised; reinforce immediately
Rust or seized exterior lock	Moisture damage; may prevent emergency exit as well as entry — replace
Master-key slot visible on your cylinder	The original construction master key may still work; rekey or replace on move-in
Smart lock low-battery warning	Replace batteries before they die — a dead battery locks you out

What actually fails (the load-bearing failure):

• Strike plate torn from the jamb on kick-in — by far the most common residential forced entry; the lock cylinder is rarely what yields.⁷⁸
• Cylinder picked, bumped, or drilled — less common in residential residential break-ins but possible with low-grade locks or untouched cylinders that still have old keys in circulation.
• Deadbolt worn to the point it no longer deadlatches — the bolt no longer catches; the door is effectively unlocked even when “locked.”
• Smart lock battery failure — the lock goes dead; without a physical key backup you cannot enter your own home.⁹

When to replace vs repair

What you see	Do this
Lock is functional, good grade, just moved in	Rekey — cheapest route to key control; change the tumblers, keep the hardware1
Lock is worn, Grade 3, or physically damaged	Replace — rekeying a bad lock gives you key control over a bad lock
Smart lock battery dead, no key backup	Replace lock or add key cylinder — one dead battery should not lock you out
Strike plate anchored with short screws	Upgrade screws (DIY, ~$10 in hardware) — the highest-ROI security fix available7
Frame visibly cracked or soft wood around strike	Repair frame then upgrade strike — consult a carpenter or door installer
Lock is high-quality Grade 1 and working fine	No action needed today — maintain annually, test the throw, lubricate

Verdict: rekeying and strike-plate upgrading are both cheap, reversible, and DIY-able — they don’t require the The Decision Lifecycle treatment. Replacing an exterior door lock with a high-security or smart unit ($200–$400 hardware + $100–$250 install²¹⁰) is a low-cost, reversible upgrade — still no full process needed. Replacing the entire door or frame crosses into higher cost and is irreversible — flag for the full The Decision Lifecycle if the quote is >$500. → Strike Plate With 3-Inch Screws Into Framing Is the Real Kick-In Defence (Home Systems)

Typical cost (BC / Metro Vancouver)

Tier	What’s included	Range	Sources
DIY / parts only	Strike plate reinforcement kit (heavy-gauge steel plate + 3-inch screws, self-install, no locksmith needed); deadbolt hardware unit (Grade 1 or 2 Schlage / Kwikset, self-install on existing prep)	Strike kit: $15–$60 · Grade 1/2 deadbolt unit: $50–$180	7114
Basic — rekey existing lock	Locksmith service call + rekey 1 lock (tumblers reset, new keys cut); labour only, hardware unchanged	$115–$175 per lock (service call $65–$125 + $50–$75/lock rekey)12	1212
Standard — replace deadbolt	Supply and install Grade 1/2 single-cylinder deadbolt, cut keys, adjust strike; locksmith supplies hardware	$150–$350 per door	21210
Premium — smart lock install	Smart deadbolt hardware (e.g. Schlage Encode, Yale Assure, August Wi-Fi) + locksmith install, programming, and key backup confirmed	Hardware $150–$400 + install $100–$250 = $250–$650 total	10213

Metro Vancouver locksmith labour runs at the higher end of BC: service calls $65–$125 (business hours) or $120–$200 (after-hours). Rekeying multiple locks in one visit is more economical — ask about a move-in rekey package. Prices are indicative; get 2–3 written quotes. Smart lock pricing excludes hub/bridge hardware if needed for remote access.

DIY deadbolt replacement: feasible if the door already has the right prep (standard 2-1/8” bore, 2-3/8” or 2-3/4” backset). Non-standard prep, metal doors, or commercial hardware requires a locksmith.

How to maintain it — the procedures

Locks require minimal maintenance but will seize and fail without it.

Procedure: Annual deadbolt service — every 12 months

Why: keeps the bolt and cylinder moving freely; catches early binding before it becomes a lockout.

You’ll need: graphite powder (NOT oil-based lubricant — oil attracts dust and eventually gums the pins); clean cloth; 5 minutes.

1. With the door open and unlocked, work the deadbolt in and out 10 times and note any resistance.
2. Insert the graphite powder nozzle into the keyhole; puff 2–3 times.
3. Work the key and bolt several times to distribute.
4. Wipe any excess graphite from the face of the lock.
5. Test the bolt at full throw — MUST verify it extends at least 1 inch and retracts cleanly.

Done when: bolt moves smoothly; full 1-inch throw confirmed.

Stop and call a pro if:

• The bolt stops short and won’t fully extend (frame may have shifted; door may need realignment)
• The key turns but the bolt does not move (worn cam — the lock is failing)
• The cylinder is loose in the door (loose cylinder can be extracted — security risk; call a locksmith same day)

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Procedure: Move-in rekey — on move-in (one-time)

Why: you have no way to know how many key copies exist. Previous owners, tradespeople, realtors, and construction master-key holders may all have working keys.¹

You’ll need: a licensed locksmith OR a DIY-rekeyable lock system (e.g. Kwikset SmartKey); new cut keys.

Locksmith route (recommended for Grade 1/2 cylinder locks):

1. Book a licensed locksmith before or on moving day.
2. Have them rekey all exterior door cylinders in one visit — this is cheaper than multiple trips.
3. MUST confirm new keys work before the locksmith leaves.
4. Decide how many key copies you need (yourself, partner, emergency contact) and cut them at the same visit.

DIY route (SmartKey-compatible locks only):

1. Obtain the Kwikset SmartKey rekeying kit (requires the current working key).
2. Follow the 3-step process: insert current key, insert SmartKey tool, swap to new key.
3. Test thoroughly — several insert-and-turn cycles.

Done when: old keys no longer operate any exterior cylinder; new keys confirmed working on all doors.

Stop and call a pro if:

• You discover the lock is a high-security or commercial cylinder (mortise, Mul-T-Lock, Medeco) — these cannot be DIY-rekeyed
• You are in strata and haven’t confirmed whether the lock is owner or strata property — pause and ask the strata manager first

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Procedure: Strike plate upgrade — one-time setup

Why: most residential kick-ins split the jamb at the strike plate, not the lock. Longer screws into the stud behind the jamb are the fix.⁷⁸

You’ll need: 3-inch #8 or #10 hardened steel screws (or a dedicated security strike kit with reinforced plate); drill/driver; 30 minutes.

1. Open the door to expose the strike plate on the door frame.
2. Remove the existing screws — most will be ½–¾ inch, going only into the jamb trim.
3. If the existing plate is a thin one-piece plate, consider replacing it with a heavy-gauge box strike or reinforcement plate (available at any hardware store, ~$15–$30).
4. Drive 3-inch screws through the plate holes, through the jamb, and into the wall stud behind it. MUST reach the stud — a screw that ends in the empty cavity between jamb and stud provides no kick resistance.
5. Test: stand inside, push the door firmly toward the frame from several angles — no movement.

Done when: all strike plate screws are 3 inches, pass through jamb and into stud; door frame feels rigid under firm lateral pressure.

Stop and call a pro if:

• The frame wood is soft, rotted, or crumbling — screws won’t hold; frame needs repair first
• You can’t locate the stud behind the jamb (use a stud finder — the stud is usually 1–1.5 inches back from the interior face of the jamb)

Maintenance calendar:

• On move-in (one-time): rekey all exterior cylinders; upgrade strike plate screws to 3-inch; document key copies issued.
• Annually: lubricate all exterior cylinders with graphite powder; test deadbolt throw (full extension confirmed); check strike plate for loose screws or cracked wood.
• After any locksmith visit, contractor work, or tenant turnover: rekey again — key control resets to zero every time a working key leaves the house.
• Smart lock batteries: check monthly via the lock’s app; replace when the app warns low battery — do not wait for failure.

Strata reality

The unit door is a contested boundary in BC strata.

The default position under BC’s Strata Property Act is that the strata corporation maintains the exterior of the building, including doors and windows that front on common areas.⁵ A 2024 BC Civil Resolution Tribunal decision (CTV News Vancouver, November 2024) confirmed that a condo entry door can be classified as common property, meaning the strata — not the owner — is responsible for it.⁶

What this means for locks:

• If your unit door is common property, adding or changing the lock hardware may constitute an alteration to common property requiring written strata approval under Standard Bylaw 6.
• Some stratas require the new lock to retain compatibility with the building’s master-key system.
• Some stratas specify exterior hardware aesthetics (finish, profile) — a smart lock retro-fit that changes the exterior appearance may be refused.

What this does NOT mean:

• You cannot be forced to give the strata your key. The SPA and Standard Bylaws require 48 hours written notice before strata can access your unit for routine inspection; emergency access has separate rules. The strata cannot simply demand a copy of your key.⁵
• Many stratas hold master keys from original construction without disclosing it. If security matters to you, ask your strata manager directly whether a building master key exists for your unit door, and how that key is controlled.

The strata action sequence (before touching any hardware):

• Read your registered bylaws for any clause about door locks, master keys, or exterior alterations.
• Email your strata manager: “Is our unit entry door classified as strata lot or common property? Do I need written council approval to rekey or replace the deadbolt?”
• Get the answer in writing before any work.

Common-area fobs and building-entrance keys are strata-controlled — you cannot rekey them. If you lose a fob, contact your strata manager; there is usually a replacement fee. → Strata Unit Door Locks — What Is Owner Scope vs Strata Scope in BC (Home Systems)

SPA references:

• SPA s. 72 — strata’s duty to repair and maintain common property
• Standard Bylaw 2 — owner’s duty to maintain their strata lot
• Standard Bylaw 6 — owner must obtain written approval before altering common property
• Standard Bylaw 3.4 — strata entry conditions (48 hours written notice for routine access)

When you hire someone

Ask:

• Are you a licensed locksmith and insured?
• Will you rekey or replace (and why — what is the condition of the existing cylinder)?
• What grade is the replacement hardware? (Insist on Grade 1 or 2 for exterior doors.)
• Are 3-inch strike-plate screws included, or do I need to request that separately?
• How many keys will you cut, and are copies priced per key?
• Can you match the finish to my other hardware?
• Do you offer a move-in rekey package (multiple locks, one visit)?

Verify the work:

• Old keys no longer operate any cylinder (test them before the locksmith leaves)
• New keys operate smoothly on all cylinders
• Deadbolt throws the full minimum 1-inch on every lock
• Strike plate screws are 3-inch (ask to see the replaced screws if you didn’t watch the work)
• Receive a receipt with the work description (useful for insurance records)

Who to call

These become real when filled in the Tier-B MOCs:

• Licensed locksmith → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: company name, phone, hours, whether they offer move-in rekey packages and serve your specific neighbourhood (Downtown Vancouver, Burnaby, Surrey, etc.).
• Insurer / broker → insurance-warranties (Home Systems). Fill: check whether your policy offers a discount for Grade 1 deadbolts or documented security upgrades; some BC insurers do.
• Strata manager → Strata MOC. Fill: the written answer on whether your unit door is owner or common property, and whether a building master key exists for your cylinder.

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Sources

Idea Compass

North: Where this comes from

• Safety & Security (Home Systems) — parent system
• Rekey Every Exterior Lock On Move-In — You Do Not Know Who Holds a Copy (Home Systems) — the key-control principle underlying move-in rekeying
• Strike Plate With 3-Inch Screws Into Framing Is the Real Kick-In Defence (Home Systems) — the structural physics of kick-in failure

East: Tensions / failure

• Strata Unit Door Locks — What Is Owner Scope vs Strata Scope in BC (Home Systems) — the ownership ambiguity that can prevent you from rekeying freely
• smart lock battery failure vs no physical-key backup — the convenience-security tradeoff in smart lock selection
• Grade 1 cylinder on a poorly-anchored strike — the false security of a good lock on a weak frame

South: Where this leads

• vendor-roster (Home Systems) — the named locksmith resource card
• alarm-system (Home Systems) — the next layer of physical security downstream
• doorbell (Home Systems) — video verification of who is at the door complements the lock
• smart-devices (Home Systems) — smart lock integration with home automation

West: What’s similar

• alarm-system (Home Systems) — sibling safety-security component; both are entry-point controls
• water-heater (Home Systems) — same strata move-in pattern: check bylaws before touching in-unit hardware
• The Decision Lifecycle — the replace-vs-repair framework; applies when door/frame cost crosses $500

Footnotes

1. Safe & Secure Locksmith Vancouver, a Vancouver locksmith company — why rekeying after move-in is essential; key-copy unknown problem; cost $50–$100/lock — https://safeandsecurelocksmith.ca/why-rekeying-your-locks-is-smarter-than-replacing-them/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵

2. The Lock Doc, a Vancouver mobile locksmith — 2025–26 Vancouver locksmith rate card; rekey per lock $50+;smartlockinstall$150–$350+;servicecall$125 standard / $150 after-hours — https://thelockdoc.ca/vancouver/rates/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵ ↩⁶

3. Fix Experts Canada, a Canadian locksmith resource — ANSI/BHMA lock grades for Canadian homeowners; Grade 1 = 800,000 cycles + 10-strike test; Grade 2 = 400,000 cycles; Grade 1 or 2 recommended for all exterior doors — https://fixexperts.ca/understanding-lock-grades-a-canadian-homeowners-guide-to-security-standards/ ↩ ↩²

4. Schlage (Allegion Canada), the lock manufacturer — BHMA residential grade overview; Grade 1 is highest (commercial and premium residential), Grade 2 is standard residential — https://ca.weiserlock.com/blogs/posts/how-is-door-hardware-graded ↩ ↩² ↩³

5. Province of BC, BC government — strata bylaws and rules explained; Standard Bylaw 3.4 (48-hour written notice for strata lot access); Standard Bylaw 6 (written approval required before altering common property) — https://www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/housing-tenancy/strata-housing/operating-a-strata/bylaws-and-rules/bylaws-and-rules-explained ↩ ↩² ↩³

6. CTV News Vancouver — BC CRT tribunal ruling (November 2024): condo entry door is common property; strata — not the owner — responsible for door replacement; flagged — article body paywalled during research, headline and tribunal outcome confirmed from article title; treat supporting detail as indicative pending full article access — https://www.ctvnews.ca/vancouver/article/condo-door-is-common-property-owner-not-responsible-for-replacing-glue-filled-lock-bc-tribunal-rules/ ↩ ↩²

7. Driscoll’s Lock & Key, US locksmith — door frame reinforcement guide; strike plate failure is the dominant break-in mode; 3-inch screws into studs are the remedy; $100–$200 in materials — https://driscolllockandkey.com/how-to-reinforce-your-door-frame-against-break-ins-a-diy-guide/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵ ↩⁶

8. Everyday Home Repairs, US home improvement resource — front door security: reinforcing the deadbolt strike plate with 3-inch screws into the stud; standard short screws only reach the jamb trim, not the structure — https://everydayhomerepairs.com/front-door-security-reinforcing-your-deadbolt-strike-plate/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

9. Reolink, smart home security — what happens when a smart lock battery dies; most smart locks have a physical key cylinder backup; 9V battery external terminal as second fallback — https://reolink.com/blog/what-happens-if-smart-lock-battery-dies/ ↩ ↩²

10. My Locksmiths Canada — 2025 smart lock installation cost in Canada; hardware $150–$400; labour $100–$250 (Vancouver rate $130–$210/hr); total $250–$650 — https://mylocksmiths.ca/2025/07/05/smart-lock-installation-cost/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

11. ACME Locksmith, US locksmith resource — ANSI Grade 1 deadbolt: 10-strike battering ram test, 800,000 cycles; Grade 1 recommended for highest-security exterior applications — https://www.acmelocksmith.com/articles/ansi-lock-grades-explained/ ↩

12. Vancouver’s Locksmiths, a Vancouver locksmith company — 2025 Vancouver locksmith pricing: rekey $50–$100/lock; change/replace locks $75–$150; install new lock $100–$300 — https://vancouverslocksmiths.com/blog/how-much-does-a-locksmith-cost-in-vancouver/ ↩ ↩²

13. Coast Time Lock & Key Co., Sunshine Coast and Metro Vancouver locksmith — published 2025–26 rate card; service call $65;rekeyonelock$50; additional rekeys $40each;high-securitylockinstall$80; Mul-T-Lock $425;Assahigh-security$300 — https://coasttimelock.com/sunshine-coast-locksmith-prices.html ↩