fence (Home Systems)

Fence

• What this is: how residential property fencing works in Metro Vancouver — materials, the post-ground failure mode that kills most fences, height bylaws, property-line law, and upkeep — for a detached home.
• Not: strata common-property fencing (strata fences are the corporation’s responsibility and governed by your registered bylaws — see your strata manager); retaining walls over 1.2 m (structural, permit required, engineering needed); pool enclosures (have their own municipal bylaw regime — noted below).
• Figures: 2025–26 Metro Vancouver estimates — get your own quotes.

Bottom line

The rule (tripwire)

• If a post is visibly rotted, leaning more than 10°, or heaving out of the ground → replace that post before the panel loads it further. A single failed post collapses the two panels attached to it; one post replacement ($200–$500) beats a cascading two-panel failure.
• If you want a fence on the property line → get your neighbour’s written consent first. Building on or over the line without agreement can force removal, even after years. If there’s any doubt about where the line is, hire a Registered BC Land Surveyor before digging — not after.
• If you are adding or replacing a fence that exceeds bylaw height (>1.2 m front yard, >1.8–2.0 m rear/side) → confirm your municipality’s permit process first. Non-compliant fences can require removal at your cost.¹²

Recurring upkeep

• Inspect all posts annually — push each one: any wobble or lean means the footing or post base has failed. Catch it early.
• Stain or seal cedar/wood fencing every 2–3 years in Metro Vancouver’s wet climate. Without it, moisture accelerates rot and the fence life halves.³⁴
• Lubricate and test gate hardware annually — hinges, latch, and any anti-sag turnbuckle. Adjust before the gate drags on the ground.

One-time setup

• Confirm your property line before any new fence work. Survey monuments (iron pins) mark corners; a Registered BC Land Surveyor can locate or replace them.⁵⁶
• Get written neighbour agreement for any line fence — record it, ideally as a registered encroachment agreement if the fence straddles the line.
• Locate and photograph your fence relative to the property line in your records. Matters when you sell.

Standing facts

• Standard Metro Vancouver height limits: 1.2 m (4 ft) front yard; 1.8–2.0 m (6 ft to 6 ft 7 in) rear and side yards, without a permit. Heights vary by municipality — always confirm with your local planning department.¹²
• Pool fences are governed by local municipal bylaw, not a single provincial standard. If you have or add a pool, check your municipality’s specific requirements before installing the enclosure.
• Barbed wire, razor wire, and electrified fencing are prohibited on residential properties in Vancouver.²
• Full fence replacement on a 100–150 ft run is a >$500, multi-year decision — it earns the The Decision Lifecycle framing.

How it works — the one thing that matters

A fence is a row of vertical posts anchored in the ground, with horizontal rails spanning between them, and panels or pickets attached to the rails. The entire load — wind, snow, neighbour’s dog — transfers from panel to rail to post to ground.

The post-ground interface is where fences die. Everything above grade is inspectable and repairable. The post below grade is not visible, and it faces two simultaneous attacks:

• Rot. In Metro Vancouver’s wet climate (>1,200 mm/yr rain), soil moisture is high year-round. The most vulnerable zone is right at grade — where the post alternates between wet and dry, and where water pools if the concrete collar or grading slopes toward the post rather than away. Wood posts set in soil alone rot in 5–8 years. Even pressure-treated posts in wet clay soil can fail at grade in 10–15 years.³
• Frost heave. Vancouver’s frost line is about 45–60 cm deep.⁷ If a post footing sits above the frost line — or if water collects under the footing — freeze-thaw cycles jack the post upward. A single heave event tilts the panel; repeated cycles destroy the footing-post bond and the panel load path with it.

So what: the footing details matter more than the wood species above grade. A post set with a gravel drainage layer at the base, a concrete footing that extends slightly above grade (to shed water away from the post), and a post treated for ground contact — or a galvanized steel post anchor instead of burial — will outlast an expensive cedar post set in bare dirt by a decade or more. → The Post-Ground Interface Is Where Fences Die (Home Systems)

Metro Vancouver frost line: ~45–60 cm. Posts should be buried to at least 60–75 cm (2–2.5 ft) in coastal BC, or deeper if your soil drains poorly. A standard 6-ft (1.8 m) privacy fence needs a total post length of ~2.4–2.5 m (8 ft) to achieve adequate burial depth.⁷

What goes wrong, and the warning signs

Watch for	What it means
Post rocks when you push it	Footing has failed — rot, heave, or both. Post needs replacement
Post is leaning toward or away from the yard	Active heave or rot-induced collapse. Adjacent panels now transferring load to flanking posts
Dark brown / black discolouration at ground level	Early rot at the most vulnerable zone — catch before structural failure
Board warps, cupping, or splits	Natural moisture cycling; accelerated without stain/seal; cosmetic but eventually structural
Grey, weathered, fuzzy wood surface	UV oxidation — the protective oils have left the wood. Staining due
Gate drops and drags the ground	Hinge failure or post lean — a sagging gate loads the latch post and accelerates its failure
Gate won’t latch	Hardware worn or out of alignment; or the latch post itself has moved
Boards loose from the rail	Fasteners rusting out (common with ungalvanized screws in wet climates)
Fence leans uniformly in one direction	Multiple post footings failing, often the uphill side in graded yards

What actually fails (the load-bearing failures):

• Post rot at or below grade — the dominant cause of fence failure in Metro Vancouver. The post cannot be inspected without digging; by the time it’s visually obvious above grade, the base is already gone.
• Frost heave of the post footing — underburied posts or water under the footing. Causes lean and eventual rail separation.
• Gate post failure — gates exert much higher continuous load on their hinge post than any panel. Gate posts fail first and fail fast when undersized or improperly anchored. The gate is the hardest-worked part of any fence.
• Fastener rust-through — galvanized or stainless screws/nails last; ungalvanized ones fail in 5–10 years in Metro Vancouver’s wet climate, loosening boards from rails.

When to replace vs repair

What you see	Do this
Single post rotten or heaving; panels still sound	Repair — replace that post. Dig out, recut or replace post, new concrete footing with gravel drainage layer
Boards weathered, cracked, or a few broken pickets	Repair — board or picket replacement; re-stain the section
Gate sagging; latch post still solid	Repair — anti-sag kit (turnbuckle + cable diagonal brace) or hinge replacement; DIY-doable
Gate sagging; latch post is rotten or heaving	Repair post first — addressing the gate hardware without fixing the post is wasted money
Multiple posts failed along a run, rails rotting	Replace the run — individual post fixes won’t hold when rails are compromised
Fence is 15–20+ years old (wood), shows widespread deterioration	Replace — past useful life for pressure-treated wood; cedar may have more life with heavy maintenance3
Repair quote exceeds 40–50% of replacement cost	Replace — the threshold at which replacement is more economical8

Verdict: single post or panel repair is reversible and typically under $500—justdoitandlogit.Afullfencereplacementrun(100–150ft)isirreversible(youcannotun-replaceafence)andcrossesthe>$500 threshold ($5,000–$15,000+ at Standard scope), so it earns the full The Decision Lifecycle treatment. The material choice at replacement time (cedar vs vinyl vs aluminum) carries long-term maintenance and cost implications — decide deliberately. → The Post-Ground Interface Is Where Fences Die (Home Systems)

Typical cost (BC / Metro Vancouver)

Tier	What’s included	Range	Sources
DIY / parts only	Replacement posts, boards/pickets, rails, hardware; you supply labour. Post: $15–$50 each (pressure-treated 4×4), pickets $2–$8 each, gate hardware $50–$200	Materials only; post hole digging $30–$50/hole if rented auger	89 — indicative (limited sources)
Basic	Like-for-like post or panel replacement; labour + materials; no permit; no old-fence removal quoted separately	Post replacement: $200–$500 per post. Board replacement: $100–$300. Gate repair: $100–$600. Section replacement: $250–$700/section (wood)	89 — indicative (limited sources)
Standard	New fence installation or full replacement: supply + install posts, rails, panels/pickets, concrete footings with gravel drainage; old fence removal included; does not include permit (typically not required at bylaw height)	Cedar 6 ft: $45–$80/linear ft. Pressure-treated 6 ft: $35–$60/linear ft. Vinyl 6 ft: $55–$90/linear ft. Aluminum ornamental: $60–$100/linear ft. Full 120 ft cedar backyard: $5,400–$9,600	101112
Premium / complex	Aluminium or steel ornamental, composite, or custom design; difficult access, sloped terrain, or combined retaining wall; gate with motorized opener	Steel/iron ornamental: $80–$150/linear ft. Composite: $55–$90/linear ft. Gate automation: $800–$2,500+ added to fence cost	1012 — indicative (limited sources)

Metro Vancouver commands the highest fence installation costs in Canada, reflecting elevated labour rates and wet-climate-resistant material specifications. Staining / sealing an existing cedar fence professionally: $3–$8/linear ft, or $450–$1,600 for a typical 150-ft residential fence; DIY materials $200–$500.⁴ Permit fees (when required) run approximately $152+ in the City of Vancouver.¹ Get 2–3 written quotes — a quote far below Standard scope for the same job likely excludes old-fence removal or concrete footings.

BC fencing costs have increased 4–7% since 2025 due to lumber and vinyl tariffs. The wide per-linear-foot range reflects slope, access, gate count, and footing conditions — a flat yard with no gates is the low end.

How to maintain it — the procedures

Procedure: Annual inspection — post-by-post check

Why: post failure is invisible until it’s structural. Catching a rotten or heaving post early costs $200–$500; missing it until the panels collapse can cost $2,000+ for a cascading repair.

You’ll need: nothing — hands, eyes, ~30 min for a typical backyard fence.

1. Walk the fence. Visually scan each post: any visible lean, discolouration at grade, or cracking?
2. MUST push each post firmly at shoulder height. Any movement (rock, wiggle, tilt) means the footing or post base has failed — tag it for repair.
3. Check all boards for loose attachment, rot, splitting, or warping. Loose boards usually mean rusting fasteners.
4. Check the gate: swing it fully open and let go. Does it swing back to the same position and latch cleanly? Any drag on the ground?
5. Look at the ground around each post: does the grade slope toward the post (water pooling risk) or away?
6. Log your findings — note which posts or sections need action and when you last inspected.

Done when: every post has been push-tested; loose boards and failing posts are tagged; gate function confirmed.

Stop and call a pro if:

• More than 2–3 posts are failing along a run (indicates widespread footing problem — full replacement may be more economical)
• Any post is leaning more than ~15° (load is already transferring to flanking posts; don’t wait)

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Procedure: Stain or seal the fence — every 2–3 years (cedar/wood)

Why: Metro Vancouver’s wet climate removes the natural oils from cedar within 2–3 years. An unprotected fence greys out, develops surface checks, and absorbs water at the post-grade zone — accelerating the rot that kills fences.³⁴

You’ll need: pressure washer (or garden hose + stiff brush), wood stain or penetrating sealer rated for exterior use, roller + brush for corners/post ends, drop cloths, 4–6 hours per 150 linear ft.

1. Power-wash the fence at low-medium pressure (1,200–1,500 PSI for cedar — high pressure raises grain). Let it dry fully — minimum 48 hours in summer; longer in fall/spring.
2. Inspect while wet: any new cracks, splits, or loose boards visible? Fix these before staining or the moisture seals in.
3. Apply penetrating oil stain or water repellent with UV inhibitor using a roller on flat surfaces; brush into board ends, post tops, and gate hardware surrounds.
4. MUST coat all exposed end grain — board tops and post tops absorb the most moisture and fail first.
5. Allow the manufacturer’s drying time before any rain contact (typically 24–48 hours).

Done when: uniform coverage on all faces; end grain sealed; no bare wood visible.

Stop and call a pro if:

• The fence has never been stained and is more than 5 years old — prep work (power washing, sanding raised grain, replacing badly rotted boards) adds time; a professional prep + stain quote may be worth it
• You see fuzzy, raised grain after washing — overpressure damage; stop and let a pro assess

Maintenance calendar:

• Annually (spring or fall): post push-test inspection + gate hardware check + visual scan. Lubricate hinges and latch.
• Every 2–3 years: clean and re-stain/seal cedar or wood fence. Check fasteners for rust.
• After any major wind event (>70 km/h gusts): quick inspection for panel shifts or posts that moved.
• At 15 years (pressure-treated) / 20 years (cedar): flip from “maintain” to “plan replacement” — budget for a full run rebuild; get quotes before it’s urgent.

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Procedure: Replace a fence post — when post fails

Why: a failed post transfers its panel load to flanking posts, which then fail faster. One post replaced promptly stops the cascade.

You’ll need: post-hole digger or rented auger, new treated post (or steel post anchor), gravel (for drainage layer), concrete (Quikrete or similar), level, temporary bracing (stakes + strapping).

1. Remove the panels (boards or pickets) attached to the failing post, then detach the rails.
2. Dig out the old post and concrete footing — a breaker bar or rented post-hole digger helps. MAY need to break up old concrete with a sledge if it’s solid.
3. Dig the new hole to a minimum of 60–75 cm depth (coastal BC) — deeper if soil is clay or drainage is poor. A post for a 6-ft fence should be at minimum an 8-ft total length.
4. Add 15 cm of crushed gravel at the bottom of the hole for drainage.
5. Set the new post; plumb it with a level on two faces; brace it temporarily with stakes.
6. Pour concrete; tamp out air bubbles; slope the top of the concrete collar away from the post so water sheds outward.
7. Let concrete cure 24–48 hours before re-attaching rails and panels.
8. Use galvanized or stainless fasteners throughout — standard screws rust in Metro Vancouver’s wet climate within 5–10 years.

Done when: post is plumb, concrete is cured, panels are reattached, post does not move when pushed firmly.

Stop and call a pro if:

• The footing is at or below a utility line (call BC One Call at 1-800-474-6886 before digging — it’s free and required)
• Multiple posts are failing and the rail system is also compromised (a professional rebuild is more efficient and structurally sound)
• The gate post is involved — gate posts take higher loads and need oversized footings; this is worth a contractor assessment

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Procedure: Adjust a sagging gate — hardware fix

Why: a gate that drags ground loads the hinge post asymmetrically and accelerates its failure. Fix the gate when the drag starts, not when the post fails.

You’ll need: screwdriver, adjustable wrench, gate anti-sag kit (turnbuckle + cable + corner brackets, ~$20–$40); or new heavy-duty hinges if existing ones are bent.

1. Confirm the hinge post is still plumb and solid (push-test it — if it moves, fix the post first).
2. Check all hinge screws/bolts — tighten any that are loose. If screws spin freely in the post (stripped holes), remove them, inject wood epoxy or insert a toothpick with glue, let cure, and re-drive.
3. If the gate still sags after tightening hardware, install an anti-sag kit: attach the cable from the top hinge-side corner diagonally to the bottom latch-side corner. Tighten the turnbuckle until the gate sits level.
4. Test the gate through a full open-close cycle; check latch engagement.

Done when: gate swings freely without dragging, latches cleanly, and hinges show no play.

Stop and call a pro if:

• The hinge post has moved (the gate is a symptom; the post is the problem)
• The gate frame itself is twisted or delaminating (structural failure of the gate panel — replace the gate)

Detached home reality

Permits. Most standard fence installations (at or below bylaw height limits) do not require a permit in Metro Vancouver municipalities. You need a permit when:

• Fence height exceeds the bylaw maximum (>1.2 m front yard; >1.8–2.0 m rear/side yard depending on municipality)¹²
• A fence is combined with a retaining wall and the combined structure exceeds the height limit
• A pool enclosure fence is being installed (pools have separate permit and safety requirements)
• The fence is on or near a corner lot with a sight triangle restriction¹

Permit fees when required: ~$152+ minimum in the City of Vancouver; processing 2–4 weeks for simple applications.¹

Property line law. In BC, you may build a fence anywhere on your own side of the property line without neighbour consent. To build directly on the line, both neighbours must agree. If there is any doubt about where the line is, hire a Registered BC Land Surveyor — survey monuments are iron pins at lot corners, and the BC Land Title office may have prior survey records on file.⁵⁶ Building on or over the property line without consent can result in a court order to remove or relocate the fence at your cost under BC Property Law Act s. 36 and the Land Title Act.⁵

Shared fence cost. There is no automatic 50/50 rule in BC. The BC Line Fences Act (a historical statute) applied primarily to rural livestock fencing. For urban residential fences, there is no statute that compels your neighbour to share the cost of a new fence. If you want cost-sharing, negotiate it and put it in a written agreement before any work begins. A fence agreement should specify material, location, total cost, each party’s share, and future maintenance responsibilities.⁶

Pool fence requirement. If you have or are adding a pool, BC delegates pool fence requirements to local municipal bylaws rather than a single provincial code. Most Metro Vancouver municipalities require:

• Minimum 1.5 m (5 ft) fence height around the pool enclosure
• Self-closing, self-latching gate with the latch at a minimum of 1.4 m (4.5 ft) height on the pool side
• No climbable horizontal members within the enclosure structure
• Maximum 100 mm gap at the bottom of the fence

Confirm your specific municipality’s pool fence bylaw before installing. A pool fence without compliant specs can result in a required rebuild.¹³

Good-neighbour convention. The “good side” (the finished, smooth face of a fence) traditionally faces the neighbour. This is a convention, not a law in BC — but breaking it needlessly creates disputes. Discuss placement and face orientation with your neighbour before digging.

When you hire someone

Ask:

• Are you licensed and insured in BC?
• Will posts be set with a gravel drainage layer at the base? At what depth?
• What type of concrete/footing are you using — standard, helical anchor, or steel post anchor?
• Are fasteners galvanized or stainless steel?
• Is old fence removal and disposal included in the quote?
• Does the quote include gate hardware and hang?
• What is your staining/sealing recommendation after install?
• What warranty covers the post installation and materials?

Verify the work:

• Push-test every post before rails go on — should have zero movement
• Check that the concrete collar slopes away from the post at grade
• Confirm all fasteners are galvanized or stainless (magnet test: galvanized and stainless are non-magnetic; standard nails will stick)
• Confirm post burial depth with the contractor — 60–75 cm minimum in coastal BC
• Gate swings cleanly and latches without adjustment
• If permit was required — confirm it was pulled and the inspection passed

Who to call

These become real when filled in the Tier-B MOCs:

• Fence contractor (licensed, insured) → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: company name, phone, notes on post-footing method, gate experience, whether they pull permits.
• Registered BC Land Surveyor → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: company name, phone, average cost for a residential boundary pin location (typically $400–$800).
• Strata manager → Strata MOC. Not applicable for detached-profile note — strata fence disputes and common-property fences are the corporation’s responsibility.
• BC One Call (before any digging) → 1-800-474-6886 or online at bc1c.ca. Free utility locate service — legally required before excavation.

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Sources

Idea Compass

North: Where this comes from

• The Post-Ground Interface Is Where Fences Die (Home Systems) — the footing-and-rot mechanism that defines fence lifespan
• Exterior (Home Systems) — parent system
• BC Property Law Act, s. 36 — the boundary fence encroachment statute
• The Decision Lifecycle — the replace-vs-repair framing for full-run replacement

East: Tensions / failure

• Know-the-Line-Before-You-Build-The-Property-Survey-Imperative (Home Systems) — the property-line dispute that a survey prevents
• Gate-Sag-Is-a-Post-and-Hardware-Problem-Not-a-Panel-Problem (Home Systems) — the gate failure mode that signals post failure
• Pool-Fences-in-BC-Are-Governed-By-Municipal-Bylaw-Not-Provincial-Code (Home Systems) — the pool-fence code complexity
• grading (Home Systems) — grade that slopes toward the fence post is the no.1 contributor to post rot

South: Where this leads

• vendor-roster (Home Systems) — the fence contractor and land surveyor named-resource cards
• exterior-paint (Home Systems) — wood fence staining shares the same product family and maintenance cadence as exterior siding finishes

West: What’s similar

• deck-patio (Home Systems) — same material failure mode (wood post + ground contact + wet climate = rot at grade); same stain cadence; same gravel-drainage footing logic
• grading (Home Systems) — positive grade away from the foundation also applies around fence post bases; same surface drainage principle

Footnotes

1. AceWorks, Vancouver contractor — fence permits in Vancouver guide; height limits (front 1.2 m, rear/side 2.0 m), permit triggers, municipal comparison (Burnaby 1.8 m, Richmond 1.8 m), permit fees ~$152, processing 2–4 weeks — https://aceworks.ca/blog/a-complete-guide-to-fence-permits-in-vancouver/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵ ↩⁶

2. Premium Fence Company, Vancouver fence contractor — Vancouver residential fence bylaw guide; height limits, allowed materials, prohibited materials (barbed wire, razor wire, electrified), property line rules — https://premiumfence.ca/residential/understanding-laws-and-regulations-for-building-a-residential-fence-in-vancouver-bc/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

3. Cool Cat Fence, Pacific Northwest fence contractor — wood fence lifespan in wet climate guide; cedar 15–30 yr, pressure-treated 10–20 yr; annual clean + seal every 2–3 yr; post installation best practices for drainage — https://coolcatfence.com/how-long-will-a-wood-fence-last-a-complete-guide-for-pacific-northwest-homeowners/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

4. Vancouver Construction Network — fence staining cost guide Vancouver; professional $3–$8/linear ft; typical 150-ft project $450–$1,600 professional or $200–$500 DIY; re-stain every 3–4 years given Vancouver climate — https://vancouverconstructionnetwork.com/construction-brain/how-much-should-i-budget-for-fence-staining-in-vancouver-35718d ↩ ↩² ↩³

5. People’s Law School, BC legal education non-profit — fences and neighbours in BC; Property Law Act s. 36, Line Fences Act, BC Boundaries Act s. 3, property line survey requirements, neighbour consent rules, dispute remedies — https://www.peopleslawschool.ca/fences-and-neighbours/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

6. Cypress Railing & Gates, BC fence supplier — shared fence law in BC; no automatic 50/50 rule, written fence agreement mechanics, Property Law Act Part 5, practical dispute resolution steps — https://shop.cypressrailing.ca/who-pays-for-a-shared-fence-in-bc-a-homeowners-guide-to-rights-responsibilities-and-stunning-metal-fencing/ ↩ ↩² ↩³

7. Barrier Boss Canada — frost line depth guide by province; coastal BC frost line 45–60 cm; post burial depth calculation for 6-ft fence (~75 cm + safety buffer); gravel drainage layer at base; wood post vs steel post in wet climate — https://barrierboss.ca/blogs/news/fence-post-depth-canada-frost-line-guide ↩ ↩²

8. Lean On Me (wefixfences.ca), Canadian fence repair service — 2025 fence repair cost guide Canada; post replacement $200–$500, board/picket replacement $100–$300, gate repair $100–$600, section replacement $250–$700, labour $40–$80/hr, 40–50% repair-vs-replace threshold — https://wefixfences.ca/blog/fence-repair-cost-canada ↩ ↩² ↩³

9. Barrier Boss, fence supply company — fence repair cost guide by type; picket replacement $8–$15 each, rail repair $25–$50, post replacement $75–$200 (materials), section repair $150–$800, gate repair $100–$400, labour $40–$65/hr — https://barrierboss.ca/blogs/news/fence-repair-cost-complete-guide-to-pricing-by-fence-type ↩ ↩²

10. Vancouver General Contractors, Metro Vancouver contractor — 2026 fence installation cost guide; per linear foot by material (pressure-treated $35–$60, cedar $45–$80, vinyl $55–$90, aluminum $60–$100, steel $80–$150); full project examples — https://vancouvergeneralcontractors.com/fence-cost-vancouver-guide/ ↩ ↩²

11. Fortress Inc., BC fence contractor — 2026 BC fence cost guide; per linear foot by material (chain link $26–$40, pressure-treated $27–$35, cedar $35–$50, vinyl $30–$70, aluminum $20–$45, composite $60–$80); full project examples — https://fortressinc.ca/how-much-does-a-fence-cost-bc/ ↩

12. MapleStar Fences, Vancouver fence contractor — 2026 Vancouver fence installation guide; height bylaws by municipality; material lifespan and cost comparison; cedar $35–$50/linear ft, vinyl $30–$70/linear ft, overall range $25–$100+/ft — https://maplestarfences.ca/fence-installation-vancouver-costs-contractors-materials-2026/ ↩ ↩²

13. Aaron’s Fencing, BC fence contractor — pool fence requirements in BC; most municipalities require 1.5 m fence, self-closing self-latching gate, latch minimum 1.4 m height on pool side, maximum 100 mm gap at bottom; provincial delegation to municipal bylaw — https://www.aaronsfencing.com/post/understanding-pool-fence-requirements-in-british-columbia ↩