outlets-lighting (Home Systems)

Outlets & Lighting

• What this is: receptacles (outlets), switches, and light fixtures — what an owner may safely do themselves, what needs a licensed electrician, and the safety items that cannot wait (backstabbed connections, warm/scorched outlets, aluminum wiring, GFCI/AFCI protection gaps).
• Not: the main breaker panel (see electrical-panel (Home Systems)); GFCI breaker-level protection (see gfci-outlets (Home Systems)); AFCI breakers (see afci (Home Systems)); aluminum branch wiring treatment in-wall (see wiring-circuits (Home Systems)); smart device integration (see smart-devices (Home Systems)).
• Figures: 2025–26 Metro Vancouver estimates — get your own quotes.

Bottom line

The rule (tripwire)

• If an outlet feels warm, shows scorch marks, or sparks when you plug in → stop using it and replace it immediately. Warm outlets are a wiring failure on the path to an arc fire, not a “monitor and watch” situation.
• If you have aluminum wiring (Metro Vancouver homes built ~1965–1976) → every receptacle and switch must be either CO/ALR-rated or copper-pigtailed. Standard brass-terminal devices on aluminum wire oxidize, loosen, and arc. This is not optional maintenance — it’s a fire-prevention requirement.¹
• If a circuit is extended or modified during renovation → GFCI protection (wet locations) and AFCI protection (bedrooms, living areas, bathrooms) are required under the 2024 BC Electrical Code. A like-for-like swap does not trigger this; new wiring or an extended circuit does.²³
• New circuits, new wiring runs, or anything beyond a like-for-like device swap → licensed electrician + Technical Safety BC permit. The DIY line is explicitly a swap, not a build.

Recurring upkeep

• Every few years: plug a night-light or phone charger into every outlet and confirm it works. Dead or intermittent outlets are a wiring-connection problem, not just an inconvenience — they often precede a failure.
• Replace any outlet or switch whose cover is discoloured, cracked, or warm. The cost is a few dollars and 15 minutes; the alternative is a potential arc.

One-time setup

• Locate and test every GFCI outlet on move-in. Press the TEST button — the outlet and any downstream outlets on that circuit should go dead. Press RESET to restore. If any bathroom, kitchen, garage, or exterior outlet is not GFCI-protected, add protection now (owner-doable or electrician — see procedures below).
• If you have aluminum wiring: confirm device type before doing any swap. Devices must be marked CO/ALR or must be pigtailed with copper — standard devices marked CU or CU ONLY are not compatible.¹⁴
• If you have older incandescent dimmers: test them with your LED bulbs before assuming they work. Most pre-2010 dimmers were designed for incandescent loads and may flicker, buzz, or not dim smoothly with LEDs. Replacement LED-rated dimmers cost $15–$40 and are owner-installable (like-for-like swap, no permit required for a detached homeowner).⁵

Standing facts

• Detached homeowners (not strata) can replace a receptacle, switch, or light fixture like-for-like, with the breaker OFF and confirmed dead, with no permit under BC’s Electrical Safety Regulation s.18.⁶ This is a physical swap of a device at the same location with the same rating — not rewiring, not adding circuits.
• Strata owners cannot pull a homeowner electrical permit and must hire a licensed contractor for any electrical work beyond the s.18 permit-exempt swaps.⁷ The like-for-like swap exception in s.18 applies to strata owners too — it’s permit-exempt for everyone — but anything that requires a permit routes to a contractor.
• In BC, a detached homeowner CAN pull a permit for their own home under s.17 of the Electrical Safety Regulation — but strata owners explicitly cannot.⁶⁷

How it works — the one thing that matters

Every outlet, switch, and light fixture in your home is at the end of a branch circuit: a loop of wire running from a breaker in the panel, through devices in the walls, and back. The breaker’s job is to trip if the wire carries more current than it was rated for. What the breaker cannot protect against is a loose connection — a wire that’s not properly clamped to a terminal. A loose connection creates resistance; resistance creates heat; heat creates arcing; arcing starts fires.

This is the load-bearing failure mode for outlets and switches. It’s what makes backstabbed connections dangerous, what makes aluminum wiring terminations dangerous, and what makes a warm or scorching outlet a fire precursor rather than a nuisance.

Backstabbed connections are the shortcut that builder electricians used (and some still use) to save seconds: instead of wrapping the wire around a screw terminal and tightening it, you push the wire into a spring-loaded hole in the back of the device. The spring clip provides adequate contact for a few years. Over time — through thermal cycling, vibration, and the repeated stress of plugging things in — the spring clip relaxes and the connection loosens. Once loose, the resistance climbs, and the outlet starts running warm. Eventually the connection arcs.⁸⁹

Screw terminals clamp the wire mechanically: a large surface area of metal-on-wire contact that thermal cycling and vibration cannot dislodge in the same way. Electricians who know this prefer screw terminals over backstabs even when backstabs are code-legal.

So what: every time you touch an outlet or switch — for any reason — use screw terminals, not backstabs. A like-for-like device swap is the opportunity to upgrade the connection quality at zero additional cost. → Backstabbed-Outlets-Arc-and-Fail-Screw-Terminals-Are-the-Safe-Choice (Home Systems)

What goes wrong, and the warning signs

Watch for	What it means
Outlet feels warm or hot to the touch	Loose connection or overloaded circuit — replace now, don’t plug in again
Scorch marks or discolouration on the outlet face	Prior arcing — the device has already failed internally; replace immediately
Outlet sparks when you plug in a device	Normal if brief and tiny; abnormal if persistent or large — persistent sparking means loose or failing connection
Outlet that doesn’t hold a plug (plug falls out)	Worn contact springs — replace the device; a loose plug at an outlet is a heating risk
Flickering lights or outlets that cut in and out	Loose wire at the device, loose connection in the junction box, or a failing breaker upstream
GFCI outlet that won’t reset	Upstream fault detected or the device has failed — test with a plug-in tester; if the outlet is genuinely faulty, replace it
Dimmer that buzzes, flickers, or won’t smooth-dim	Dimmer is incandescent-rated; LED load is incompatible — replace the dimmer with an LED-rated model
Any outlet on aluminum-wired circuit with a standard brass-screw device	Device is not rated for aluminum wire — this is a fire risk, not a cosmetic issue
Dead outlet that has never worked (or recently stopped)	Check upstream GFCI outlet on the same circuit — many bathrooms and kitchens have one GFCI controlling several downstream outlets

What actually causes fires:

• Backstabbed connections that loosen and arc — the dominant failure in residential outlets; the mechanism is slow but predictable.⁸⁹
• Aluminum wiring at standard-brass terminals — oxidation raises resistance at the connection point; the loose-high-resistance-arc sequence follows.¹⁴
• Overloaded extension cords substituting for missing outlets — not the outlet’s fault, but a common path to a fire when the cord is undersized for the load.
• Worn outlet contacts — an outlet that won’t hold a plug creates intermittent contact at the load side, which is another resistance-heat-arc path.

When to replace vs repair

What you see	Do this
Warm, discoloured, or scorched outlet	Replace immediately — the device has already failed; there is no repair
Outlet that doesn’t hold a plug firmly	Replace — worn contact springs are not repairable; a loose plug is a heating hazard
Working outlet with backstabbed connections (visible when you pull it out)	Replace with screw-terminal connection — the device itself may be fine, but the connection is the risk
Incandescent dimmer on an LED circuit (flicker/buzz)	Replace with LED-rated dimmer — incompatible load; typically owner-doable like-for-like swap
Non-GFCI outlet in bathroom, kitchen counter, garage, or exterior	Replace with GFCI or add upstream GFCI protection — code-required protection is missing
Standard device on aluminum wiring	Replace with CO/ALR-rated device or pigtail to copper — this is a fire-prevention requirement, not optional
Working outlet, no signs of failure, screw terminals	Leave it — if it’s not broken and correctly wired, don’t disturb it
Light fixture that flickers with a new LED bulb	Try an LED-rated dimmer first before replacing the fixture — usually the dimmer, not the fixture

Verdict: Like-for-like outlet, switch, and fixture replacement is low-cost ($5–$40 in parts) and fully reversible (unscrew, rewire, replace). No Decision Lifecycle formality required — just do it with the breaker confirmed dead. Adding a new circuit or wiring run crosses both thresholds (>$500 + irreversible) and routes to The Decision Lifecycle and a licensed electrician.

Typical cost (BC / Metro Vancouver)

Tier	What’s included	Range	Sources
DIY / parts only	Outlet or switch device only (standard, GFCI, USB, smart, dimmer); breaker-off swap is owner-doable in a detached home (permit-exempt under s.18)6	$5–$60 per device	1011
Basic	Like-for-like outlet or switch replacement by electrician, 1–2 devices; labour + materials; no permit for s.18 swaps	$150–$300 per outlet or switch	121314
Standard	Ceiling or pendant fixture replacement (swap at existing box) by electrician; or GFCI/AFCI outlet install with upstream protection; includes labour, device, and wiring at the box	$150–$350 per fixture or protected outlet15; $100–$300 to swap an existing ceiling fixture13	121315
Premium / new circuit	New outlet or light added (new wiring run); pot lights (new cut-in recessed lighting); full-room dimmer+LED upgrade; smart switch wiring; permit + TSBC inspection required	$150–$350 per pot light installed15; $500–$1,200+ for new wiring run or smart-home lighting setup1214	12131415

Metro Vancouver electrician rates run $95–$135/hour for certified journeymen, with a 2-hour minimum or service-call minimum of $150–$300 common in the region.¹²¹³ Parts are additional. Permit fees for work that requires one range from $100–$500 depending on scope.¹⁴ Aluminum wiring pigtailing (co-located with outlet work) runs $50–$100 per connection — see wiring-circuits (Home Systems) and electrical-panel (Home Systems) for full pigtailing cost context.

DIY parts cost is from Canadian home improvement retailers (Home Depot Canada, Rona); pricing is current to 2025–26. Installed rates are triangulated across Metro Vancouver electricians and cost aggregators — see footnotes. Single-source figures are labelled as such.

How to maintain it — the procedures

Procedure: Monthly — outlet and switch visual check

Why: warm or discoloured devices are pre-failure warning signs caught at zero cost during a visual scan.

You’ll need: nothing; 2 minutes.

1. Walk through each room and look at every visible outlet and switch face.
2. Note any that are discoloured, cracked, have scorch marks, or have a cover that isn’t flush.
3. Press TEST on any GFCI outlet you notice — confirm it trips and resets.

Done when: no warm, scorched, or cracked devices; all GFCIs trip and reset cleanly.

Stop and call a pro if:

• Any device is warm to the touch
• Any device shows scorch marks
• A GFCI won’t reset after TEST/RESET cycle

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Procedure: Like-for-like outlet or switch replacement — owner-doable in a detached home

Why: a failing, loose, or backstabbed device is replaced for $5–$15 in parts; the same failure left alone is a fire path. In a detached home, s.18 of the Electrical Safety Regulation allows an owner to do this without a permit.⁶

You’ll need:

• Replacement device (same voltage/ampere rating — for aluminum wiring: must be marked CO/ALR)
• Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
• Non-contact voltage tester ($15–$30 at any hardware store)
• Needle-nose pliers

1. MUST identify the correct breaker and turn it OFF at the panel.
2. MUST confirm the outlet is dead using the non-contact voltage tester before touching any wire. Test both the outlet AND the screws inside the box once opened. Do not trust the breaker label alone — test every time.
3. Unscrew the cover plate and pull the device out of the box gently.
4. Photograph the existing wiring configuration before disconnecting anything.
5. Note whether the existing device is backstabbed (wires going into holes in the back) or screw-terminal connected.
6. MUST use screw terminals on the replacement device — not the backstab holes, even if the replacement device has them. Wrap the wire clockwise around the screw so tightening the screw clamps the wire.
7. For aluminum wiring: MUST use a CO/ALR-rated replacement device. Connect with the screw terminals (not backstabs). Consider anti-oxidant compound on the wire end.¹
8. Tuck wires back neatly; push the device into the box; fasten screws; install the cover plate.
9. Restore the breaker. Test with a lamp or plug-in tester.

Done when: the outlet or switch works normally with no warm housing after 5 minutes under load.

Stop and call a pro if:

• You cannot confirm the circuit is dead with a voltage tester (borrow or buy one — never work on a circuit you haven’t tested)
• The wiring in the box is aluminum and you do not have a CO/ALR-rated replacement device
• The box is crowded, wires are brittle, or insulation is cracked (older wiring showing its age)
• There are more than 3 wires in the box and you are not sure which is which
• You are in a strata (the s.18 permit-exempt swap still applies, but if work goes beyond a simple like-for-like you need a licensed contractor)

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Procedure: Replace an incandescent dimmer with an LED-rated dimmer

Why: incandescent dimmers limit the minimum voltage using a technique that causes LEDs to flicker or buzz. An LED-rated (or “universal”) dimmer is designed for the lower wattage and different load characteristics of LEDs.⁵

You’ll need: LED-compatible dimmer switch (check fixture wattage rating on the dimmer packaging), screwdrivers, voltage tester.

1. Turn off the breaker. MUST confirm dead with a voltage tester.
2. Remove the old dimmer. Note the wire connections (photograph them).
3. Connect the new LED-rated dimmer following the manufacturer’s diagram. Most single-pole dimmers have two black leads; a 3-way dimmer has a distinct traveller terminal.
4. Push into the box; install cover plate; restore breaker.
5. Test: dim from 100% to the lowest setting and back. No flicker, no buzz = done.

Done when: smooth, buzz-free dimming from full on to the lowest rated dim level.

Stop and call a pro if: wiring in the box does not match the new dimmer’s diagram (e.g., unexpected wire counts or colours), or the dimmer still flickers after replacement (the fixture itself may have a compatibility issue).

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Procedure: Test and locate GFCI protection on move-in

Why: a tripped upstream GFCI is the most common explanation for a dead bathroom, garage, or kitchen outlet. Many outlets in those rooms are downstream of one GFCI — finding and mapping them prevents unnecessary service calls.

You’ll need: plug-in night-light or phone charger; 10 minutes.

1. Locate every GFCI outlet in the unit (look for TEST/RESET buttons). Common locations: bathrooms, kitchen counter area within 1.5 m of a sink, garage, outdoor outlets, basement.
2. Press TEST on each one. The outlet should go dead; any downstream outlets on that circuit should also go dead.
3. Walk the unit with a plug-in light to identify which outlets lost power (these are downstream of that GFCI).
4. Press RESET to restore. Confirm downstream outlets come back.
5. If any bathroom, kitchen-counter, garage, or exterior outlet is NOT protected by GFCI (neither itself nor an upstream device): note it. Add GFCI protection — either replace the device with a GFCI outlet, or install a GFCI breaker upstream. Either is owner-doable for a detached homeowner (like-for-like device swap); strata owners call an electrician.

Done when: all wet-location and exterior outlets have GFCI protection and you know which device controls which downstream outlets.

Maintenance calendar:

• On move-in: GFCI map + test; LED/dimmer compatibility check; locate and test every outlet.
• Monthly: visual scan for warm, discoloured, or cracked devices.
• Every few years or when an outlet starts behaving oddly: pull the device and inspect the connection type — backstabs are a flag for replacement.
• At any renovation: if any circuit is extended or modified, GFCI (wet/outdoor) and AFCI (bedrooms, living areas, bathrooms) protection must be installed on the modified circuit before the job is done.²³
• When replacing incandescent bulbs with LED: check dimmer compatibility first; swap the dimmer if needed.

Strata reality

Inside your unit, electrical devices are your responsibility.

Under Standard Bylaw 2 of the SPA, owners must repair and maintain their strata lot. Outlets, switches, and light fixtures inside your unit are strata-lot components — yours to maintain and replace.¹⁶

The strata is responsible for common-property electrical: corridor lighting, common-area switches, building wiring in common spaces, and the building’s electrical operating permit if one exists.

The permit line for strata owners:

• Like-for-like swap (s.18 permit-exempt): a strata owner can replace a receptacle, switch, or light fixture with the same type at the same location without a permit, the same as a detached homeowner. The permit exemption in s.18 of the Electrical Safety Regulation is not restricted to detached homes.⁶
• Anything requiring a permit (new outlet, new wiring, moving a switch, adding a circuit) → you cannot pull a homeowner permit as a strata owner. A licensed contractor must pull the installation permit.⁷
• Standard Bylaw 8: notify your strata manager before any work that might affect common property or require access to shared spaces. A like-for-like swap in your own unit does not require strata approval. New wiring or work involving shared walls may.

Water damage cross-link: outlets and switches do not typically create flood risk, but a failed light fixture over a shower, or wiring work that opens a wet-wall partition, can create water-intrusion risk. Keep your strata manager informed of any work that opens walls. Any work that results in water damage to a unit below triggers s.158¹⁷ SPA chargeback exposure — see The Strata Insurance Circularity Problem.

Relevant SPA provisions:

• Standard Bylaw 2 — owner’s duty to maintain strata lot
• Standard Bylaw 8 — strata council approval for alterations affecting common property
• SPA s.158 — deductible chargeback if damage originates in your unit

When you hire someone

Ask:

• Are you a licensed electrician (Journeyman / Red Seal) and TSBC-registered? (Get their TSBC licence number.)
• Will you pull a Technical Safety BC installation permit for work that requires one?
• For aluminum-wiring homes: will you use CO/ALR-rated devices or copper pigtails at every termination?
• Are replacement devices screw-terminal only — no backstabbing?
• Will you install GFCI or AFCI protection where the code requires it for any modified circuits?
• Do you provide a warranty on labour?

Verify the work:

• Permit issued (if required) and inspection PASSED before work is considered complete
• All new/replaced outlets have screw-terminal connections — pull slightly on any device and confirm no bare wire is pushed into the backstab hole
• GFCI outlets TEST and RESET correctly
• No outlet or switch feels warm after 10 minutes under load
• On aluminum-wired circuits: CO/ALR-rated devices visible on the device label, or pigtailing documented on the invoice
• For LED dimmer work: smooth dimming across the full range with no buzz

Who to call

• Licensed electrician (Journeyman / TSBC-registered) → vendor-roster (Home Systems). Fill: company name, TSBC licence number, phone, notes on aluminum wiring experience and strata permit handling.
• Insurer / broker → insurance-warranties (Home Systems). Fill: confirm your policy covers aluminum wiring in the unit — some policies require a pigtailing certificate or CO/ALR retrofit as a condition of coverage.
• Strata manager → Strata MOC. Fill: process for notifying strata of in-unit electrical work and whether your building has an electrical operating permit (EOP) on file.

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Sources

Idea Compass

North: Where this comes from

• Electrical (Home Systems) — parent system
• electrical-panel (Home Systems) — upstream; the panel feeds every branch circuit this note lives on
• BC Electrical Safety Regulation s.17 and s.18 — the statute that defines the DIY line

East: Tensions / failure

• Backstabbed-Outlets-Arc-and-Fail-Screw-Terminals-Are-the-Safe-Choice (Home Systems) — the connection-quality failure mode that fires come from
• wiring-circuits (Home Systems) — aluminum wiring is the companion hazard; device compatibility is required
• gfci-outlets (Home Systems) — GFCI protection gaps in wet locations
• afci (Home Systems) — AFCI gaps on modified or extended circuits

South: Where this leads

• GFCI-and-AFCI-Protection-Where-Required-in-BC (Home Systems) — the required-protection map
• LED-Retrofit-and-Dimmer-Compatibility (Home Systems) — the energy-saving upgrade path
• smart-devices (Home Systems) — USB and smart outlets are the device-upgrade path
• vendor-roster (Home Systems) — the licensed electrician named-resource card

West: What’s similar

• electrical-panel (Home Systems) — same loose-connection-causes-fire mechanism; panel failures are the upstream version of outlet failures
• Like-for-Like-Receptacle-and-Switch-Replacement-Is-Permit-Exempt-in-BC-for-Detached-Homeowners (Home Systems) — the DIY permission rule this note relies on
• The Strata Insurance Circularity Problem — strata permit and repair responsibility context

Footnotes

1. WireChief Electric, Vancouver electrician — aluminum wiring in Vancouver; CO/ALR-rated devices or copper pigtailing required; homes built 1965–1978; three BC-approved remediation methods; insurers may require inspection certificate — https://www.wirechiefelectric.com/vancouver-electrical-services/aluminum-wiring-vancouver-facts-solutions ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

2. Technical Safety BC, BC electrical safety regulator — Information Bulletin: minimum requirements for upgrading electrical systems; GFCI protection for wet locations; AFCI for new or extended branch circuits — https://www.technicalsafetybc.ca/regulatory-resources/regulatory-notices/information-bulletin-minimum-requirements-upgrading-electrical-systems ↩ ↩²

3. Kato Electrical, a Vancouver-area electrician — BC Electrical Code changes 2024/2025: AFCI now required for any branch circuit extended during renovation including bedrooms, living areas, bathrooms, smoke alarms; GFCI for wet and outdoor locations — https://www.katoelectrical.com/blog-1/electrical-code-changes ↩ ↩²

4. InspectApedia — CO/ALR and CU/AL devices for aluminum wiring: CO/ALR is the current standard (older CU/AL insufficient due to oxidation and overheating); CO/ALR devices use terminal materials and geometry designed for aluminum’s expansion rate — https://inspectapedia.com/aluminum/Aluminum_Wiring_Repair_COALR.php ↩ ↩²

5. WhatWatt — LED retrofit guide for older homes: incandescent dimmers incompatible with LED loads; replacement with LED-rated (“universal”) dimmers required to eliminate flicker and buzz; dimmable LED fixtures should specify compatible dimmer brand — https://www.whatwatt.com/led-retrofit-guide/ ↩ ↩²

6. BC Laws, the governing statute — Electrical Safety Regulation (BC Reg 100/2004), s.17 (homeowner permits) and s.18 (permit-exempt work including like-for-like receptacle, switch, and lamp replacement) — https://www.bclaws.gov.bc.ca/civix/document/id/complete/statreg/12_100_2004 ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵

7. Technical Safety BC, the BC electrical safety regulator — homeowner electrical permits; strata owners explicitly excluded from homeowner permits and must hire a licensed contractor — https://www.technicalsafetybc.ca/apply-for/permits/homeowner-permits/homeowner-electrical-permits ↩ ↩² ↩³

8. Blessed Electrical, licensed electricians — backstabbed outlet risks: loose spring clip over time → resistance → heat → arcing; screw terminals recommended as the safe alternative — https://blessedelectrical.com/blog/backstabbed-electrical-outlets ↩ ↩²

9. Engineer Fix — why backstabbed outlets are a fire hazard: increased resistance generates heat, causes scorching, and eventually arcing; backstabs function for 1–2 years then degrade — https://engineerfix.com/why-backstabbed-outlets-are-a-fire-hazard/ ↩ ↩²

10. Home Depot Canada, home improvement retailer — outlet installation and replacement; average installed cost $100–$300; outlet types (GFCI, USB, smart, standard); 1–2 hours typical installation time — https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/home-services/electrical-and-lighting/outlet-installation-and-replacement.html ↩

11. HomeGuide — cost to install electrical outlet 2026; smart outlets $20–$50 parts alone; standard outlet $5–$15 parts; USB outlets $20–$40 parts; labour $50–$130/hour additional — https://homeguide.com/costs/cost-to-install-electrical-outlet ↩

12. Elpro Electric, Vancouver electrician — 2025 Vancouver electrician cost guide; hourly rates $95–$135 certified journeyman; outlet or switch installation $150–$300 per device; smart home electrical setup $500–$1,200; service call / 2-hour minimum $150–$300 — https://elproelectric.ca/vancouver-electrician-costs-2025-complete-guide-to-rates-red-seal-certification-how-to-save-money-on-electrical-services/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵

13. Whitley Electric, Vancouver electrician — 2-hour minimum charge $300;$125/hour after; most basic outlet/switch/fixture swaps fall within the 2-hour minimum; materials extra — https://www.whitleyelectric.com/blog/how-much-does-an-electrician-cost-vancouver ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴ ↩⁵

14. Vancouver General Contractors, Metro Vancouver — BC electrical permit guide 2025; pot light installation $150–$350 per fixture in Greater Vancouver; permit fees $100–$500 depending on scope — https://vancouvergeneralcontractors.com/renovation-bc-electrical-permit-technical-safety/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

15. Line In Electric, Metro Vancouver electrician — pot light installation cost Vancouver 2026: $150–$350 per fixture installed (4–6 fixtures at $200–$250 each average); includes fixture, labour, dimmer allocation, TSBC permit; ceiling access is biggest cost driver — https://www.lineinelectric.com/blog/pot-light-installation-cost-vancouver/ ↩ ↩² ↩³ ↩⁴

16. Province of BC, BC government — division of repair duties in a strata; owner responsible for repair and maintenance of strata lot (Standard Bylaw 2) — https://www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/housing-tenancy/strata-housing/operating-a-strata/repairs-and-maintenance/division-of-repair-duties ↩

17. Strata Property Act (BC Laws) — the governing statute (incl. ss. 135, 158, 164) — https://www.bclaws.gov.bc.ca/civix/document/id/complete/statreg/98043_09 ↩